Read an excerpt from this book AVAILABLE NOW |
|
Updated information Special thanks to Mark A Scott, Rene Vertonghen and Helle-Mai PedastsaarGeneral Planning Factors/Strategy Australian connection Unfortunately Merpati no longer flies Kupang (Timor, Indonesia) - Darwin (Australia). Connection to Australia from Bali (for example Air Paradise) is not cheap - about 400$ return. Or go via East Timor. Visas It remains very much cheaper to get a Lao visa in Thailand then get a Vietnam visa in Cambodia rather than travelling the other way around. Laos visas in Vietnam pricey. Shopping around between consulates/services It seems that these countries only set the ‘wholesale’ price of their visas and if you shop around between the embassy and a couple on consulates of the same country, you may find big differences. If you use a visa service it might be even cheaper because it can disguise poaching. In Phnom Penh to get a visa for Vietnam, Capital Guest House offered $28 for 2 days or $30 for 1 day so I went off to the beach at Sihanoukville while I waited. After I got my passport back I found that it had not gone to the embassy in Phnom Penh but to the consulate in Sihanoukville, in fact it had probably gone on the same Capital Guest House bus as me. If I had taken it there myself I would have paid $30 because in Sihanoukville the consulate has no need to discount but poaching from the embassy in Phnom Penh they have to discount to undercut them and pay for the courier to bring the passports on the bus. I wonder what they do with all these photos you have to submit with your visa application, if I had gone myself I would have had to supply two but using Capital Guest House they did not need any photos. I have heard the same with Khao San Road visas for Laos. Those costing you 1200 B often get issued at the consulate in Khon Kaen. Yet if you were to go there yourself they’d cost 1350B! Internet The prices keep coming down. In Thailand and Vietnam the telecom infrastructure seems to be spread around enough that secondary cities with cheaper rents are often cheaper than major cities for access; In Cambodia and Laos the telecom infrastructure is the limiting factor and that capital is the cheapest place for access. Every one of these countries now has some access under $0.50/hour and in Vietnam I have got it as low as $0.20/hour. In Cambodia Internet Phone Calls are also very cheap, as low as $0.06/min. Thailand Transport Trains The easiest way to determine the surcharge on a train is from the train number, trains 1-49 are special express, 50-99 are express (60 B), 100-199 are rapid (40 B) and 200 and up are ordinary (0 B). Note that both the SRT website (www.srt.or.th) and English timetables do not include most ordinary trains and the English timetables are really only designed for going to/from Bangkok to another major town while the fares they quote include express surcharges but the Thai timetables have all the trains and are not that hard to follow as several of the major towns are written in both Thai and English and if the one you want is only in Thai then just ask and they will show you which line you want. Food Thailand has good supermarkets such as Tesco/Lotus and Big C - great for westernized food shopping. Stock up here if you’re likely to crave such items as good jam, tins of stuff for sandwiches etc in Vietnam/Laos/Cambodia as although the bread is better in those countries, supermarkets are more aimed at ex-pats and this so expensive. “I found a tuna with ginger and garlic to make a great improvised sandwich filling!” - Mark Scott Khon Kaen The Lao consulate has moved, it is now about 1km east of TAT on Prachasamosom Rd (take p/u number 10). It charges 1350 B and 2 photos for 30 day visas issued on the spot The Vietnamese consulate remains as in the map, also on #10 bus route, or walk a further 100m east to Chaya Phadung Rd then 400m south. Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) Siri Hotel, about 750m east of train station on Pho Klang Rd 120 B fan double with bath, very good value. Fah Sang Hotel about 500m east of train station on Mukkhamontri Rd (the main road in front of station) 150 B (both these hotels are close to the point where Suranari Rd and Pho Klang Rd intersect - see map) Cambodia Food All the cheap hotels and guest houses seem to make their money off their attached restaurant not their room rates. In most countries of the world you can eat breakfast, lunch and dinner for less than the cost of your accommodation but in Cambodia a single meal will probably cost more than your room unless you go to a place that is not aimed at ‘barangs’ (foreigners). Phnom Penh Capital Guest House $2 fan single without bath. Capital Guest House has bus services to Siem Reap $4, Sihanoukville $2.50 o/w $4 r/t, Saigon $6 and while I am sure they collect commissions there is no pressure along those lines, they also tend to pickup and drop-off where you want to go (e.g. in Sihanoukville they will pickup or drop-off at the Koh Kong ferry, Weather Station Hill, centre of town and Ochheuteal Beach, whereas the pickups congregate by the train station and the other bus companies and taxis in the centre of town) so saving a couple of moto rides. Outside Lucky Supermarket on Preah Sihanouk Blvd half block east of Monivong Blvd several vendors do a tasty takeaway BBQ chicken at 2000 Riels for a quarter, compare that with guest house prices. Another Lucky Supermarket is in Sorya shopping centre on 63 Street 1 block south of Psar Thmei (Central Market). The posh but delightful to explore Royal Hotel got burnt down in the Jan 2003 anti Thai rioting (it was owned by Thais) Siem Reap Buses from Bangkok Travel agents just off KSR: Poipet 250 B, Sisophon 450 B, Battambang 550 B and Siem Reap 100 B so it gives an idea of how much commission is behind those cheap bus trips to Siem Reap: they are going to have to make $10 off you. Capital Guest House in Phnom Penh now have an office selling bus tickets near Psar Chas (Old Market). Popular Guest House 33 Boboos Street near Sivatha Blvd and Pokambor Ave $2 fan single without bath. Sihanoukville Dada Guest House Weather Station Hill $2 fan single without bath. About two thirds of the way from Phnom Penh on Route 4 there is a big intersection for Route 48 to Koh Kong, it is now open but not surfaced, there is a minibus service between Sihanoukville and Koh Kong but the boat still runs and there is taxi and pickup service between Phnom Penh and Koh Kong. Sokha Beach now has a massive package holiday resort nearing completion. Koh Kong The bridge across the river is finished and operating. Vietnam Transport Flights Flight Dien Bien Phu- Luang Prabang is out of service. Airfares have fallen for foreigners (they are the same for everyone) Boats There are regular boat services to the remote islands like Con Dao Motorbikes Helmets must now be worn when riding motor-cylces and you now need a local driving licence (easily obtained for 90.000 VND, valid till visa expiry date and handy for people staying at least a few months). Open Tour Buses There are many agents but only three main operators actually run the services: Sinh Cafe, TM Brothers and Hanh Cafe. The agents will not tell you who their operator is but if you look at their leaflets the departure times will fall into three groups of the actual operators. The prices for Sinh Cafe seem quite a bit more expensive but they give a 20% discount without even asking which leaves them about 10% more expensive that the other two. The main choice seems to be after leaving Saigon whether you stop in Dalat or Mui Ne or go direct to Nha Trang, then it is Hoi An, Hue and Hanoi. 2003 prices (Sinh Cafe after 20% disc) are $21-$23 via Dalat, $21-$24 via Mui Ne and $19-$22 direct to Nha Trang. You can also book individual segments, the total would be $25-$30 but it gives you more choice when day buses suddenly become night buses but probably not when air-con buses turn out not to have the air-con working. Be prepared for lies and unpleasantness in the eternal search for commissions, all the accomodation in town, except for the hotel they are so nicely taking you to, is never full. I found that $3 (45000 Dong) for a fan single with bath was available in most towns and cities. If you go to the the hotels that the open tour buses take you to you will pay more $4 or $5 for the same. Food and Drink Drinking water is quite expensive (twice the price) in Vietnam compared to the other countries and the fact that you might like it cold has not sunk in nearly as much as in the other countries. Draft beer (bia hoi) is very cheap (5000 Dong/litre) and is cold and will come with ice to put in the glass if you want to keep it that way. With cold beer only half as much again as warm water the choice is obvious. Saigon By 217 De Than (the street where the open tour buses dropoff) is an alleyway that leads to a number of houses that rent rooms for around $3 with fan and bath, some are very nice and a much better deal than the surrounding hotels. Nha Trang Supermarket at Yersin and Quang Trung (three streets intersect here). Away from the touristy part of town 1 Block north of Yersin on Trung Nu Viong where it doglegs 45 degrees to the market are some nice restaurants with draft beer at 5000 Dong/litre and internet shops at 3000 Dong/hour. Hanoi At the SE corner of Hoan Keim Lake there is a big air-con shopping centre with supermarket upstairs. Open tour bus to Vientiane, there are many agents but I think only two operators, the buses leave in the evening from near the Lao embassy but a taxi is provided from the Old Quarter $15-$18. It takes about 20 hours, you can also go to Savannakhet but they will just transfer you to another bus when they reach Route 13 along the Mekong in Laos. Border Kaew Nua (Laos)/Cao Treo (Vietnam) The exchange rates are better on the Lao side (a proper bank), on the Viet side it is just a man with a case full of money. I had to pay $1 to get out of Vietnam. Laos Vientiane Sabaidy Guest House, Setthathilath Road in the centre, 15000 Kip in dormitory and cheap meals. 2003 Bus prices ex Vientiane: Vang Vieng 9000 Kip, Savannakhet 30000 Kip, Pakse 47000 Kip, Louang Prabang 50000 Kip there are also VIP buses that cost about 20000 Kip more but do not seem much different. The Morning Market bus station is only for destinations in Vientiane province (e.g. Vang Vieng) there is a new Northern bus station for both northern and southern Laos destinations. It is not on any of the maps I saw, Directions are as follows: Settathilath Road and Samsenthai Road are the two main o/w streets through downtown, they join together at both ends of town; the two main streets join about 1km NW from the centre, by the Mekong Hotel, from there go another block inland from the Mekong to Talat Nong Duang Road and continue a further 1km NW from the centre to the Northern bus station. The VIP bus station is the opposite way, past where the two main streets join about 1km SE of the centre. Savannakhet Thai consulate is now on the river front N of the centre. Boat to Mukdahan 50 B; Bus to Pakse 25000 Kip. The road is now in good repair. Santyphab Hotel 25000 Kip fan single with bath, falling to pieces. Another cheap GH on map just N of there seems to have completely fallen to pieces. Savanbanhao and Savanphattana Hotels are about 35000 - 40000 Kip Pakse Sabaidy 2 Guest House, Road 24 by Vietnamese consulate, 15000 Kip in dormitory, very clean toilets. Northern Bus Terminal (7km) to centre should be 2000 Kip but they will try for 4000 Kip. Doahuang Market (by Mekong bridge) to Chong Mek 7000 Kip I had to pay $1 to get out of Laos. Yunnan Kunming The Hump is definitively closed as a hostel, though the bar still works. Singapore accommodation Singapore once lacked good backpacker places. Now, however, there are at least two excellent options: Betel Box Hostel 200 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427471 tel (65) 6247 7340, www.betelbox.com Inn Crowd 73 Dunlop St, Historic Little India, Singapore 209401, tel: (65) 6296 9169 www.the-inncrowd.com. Wonderful position. Both charge S$18 for very good good dorm beds in places designed by travellers for travellers. Both have free fast-connection internet for guests. Check out their websites. Malaysia Transport Trains Travelling 3rd class - soft reclining seats and AC - is a good way to sleep the night and save accommodation money. Prices: Johor Bharu-KL 18 ringgit, KL-Butterworth 17 ringgit: that’s good considering that bus prices have gone up lately. Food Big supermarkets can save money on self catering. Eg Mydin stores, in every big town, have 1.5 l bottles of water at 0.65 ringgit. Much cheaper than at station stalls etc. Indonesia Ferries Pelni (the shipping company) has improved their website. www.pelni.id When travelling in the east it’s worth having a print out of the latest full timetable for planning purposes (will fit on 3 pages of A4) as in Maluku there are virtually no internet cafes (Ternate and Kota Ambon only) and the Pelni offices almost never have a full timetable to give away. Tanjung Priok - Batam services are useful for a cheap way to get to Singapore from Jakarta. Runs approx twice a week. The main problem with Pelni is that you have to book tickets in the harbour from which you will be leaving. One exception is the Yogyakarta office, that sells tickets for boats leaving from Surabaya and Jakarta. Philippines Air travel Manila has opened a second international airport named after the president Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo’s father ex President Diosdado Macapagal. It’s what was formally known as Clark Airforce Base, and is around 2?hrs drive north of the city. Be sure you know where you will arrive/leave from! Most flights still use Ninoy Aquino Airport (NAIA, code MNL). Cebu Pacific (to Cebu) and some Asiana flights from Korea are supposedly going to start using Diosdado Macapagal airport (DMIA) from September 2003, though Asiana’s website doesn’t seem to agree! |
South-East Asia - The Graphic Guide