I've said it before and I'll say it again, Trailblazer guides take some beating.
- Adventure Travel
Coast to Coast Path: St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay
by: Henry Stedman
UPDATES
Updated information
Thank you to the readers who sent in updated information in particular to Elizabeth, Andrew, and Harriet Napier, Chizzer Childs, and Mand, Mark and Chesney, John Woolston, Philippa and Michael Sutton, Mats Heder, Harry Whitehouse, Marilyn Smith, Mary and George Southern, Colin Shepherd, Mr Renford Paris, Mr Oldersha, Sjef and Valentijn Verpaalen, Jean Thornton, Jean Oliphant, John Beckwith, Gerri Burgess, Ian Walker and Steve, Michele and Andy Webb.
The information has not yet been checked by Trailblazer but it will be for the next edition.
Page 132, Patterdale to Shap - A small camping facility at 'Aragon', Naddle Gate, Burnbanks, Penrith CA10 2RL. Tel: 01931 713629. Email: chizzer@homecall.co.uk. It is about 3.5 miles before Shap, grid reference 511160. From Naddle Bridge walk down the road for 200 metres(northward) and 'Aragon' is the first house on the righthand side. Ths site is very quiet amongst trees and close to the river. There is an outside washing up facility and campers currently make use of the owner's bathroom where a shower is available.
General:
ATM machines. It might be noted that not all ATM machines (especially those in smaller villages, Coops, P.O.s, etc.) accept US ATM cards. We were successful in Richmond and Kirkby Stephen, but there are big gaps where access to cash via cash machine is limited for those with US bank cards. There is no longer an ATM in Shap, and the bank there was inexplicably closed the day we went through (due to shortage of staff). There is also no ATM in St Bees, though even the St Bees webpage says there is one, and we had to be driven to Egremont to withdraw money.
Markets. There are markets during the summer on specific days in specific towns that might be helpful to indicate.
Map 24: it might be helpful to note here that there is a marked public footpath at the turn off the road to Glenridding and that one shouldn't take the earlier one marked "To Patterdale"
Map 25: It can be confusing coming down into Patterdale. We came out at the hotel when we wanted to come out by the store. Souvenirs in Patterdale store are good value.
Map 27: turn up to Kidsty Pike is easy to miss. There may be 3 paths here vying for attention.
Kirkby Stephen to Keld: The signs are adamant about which route one should take when in order to minimize damage to plants, nesting areas, etc., and to help reduce erosion.
Map 58 (Marske): there is a lovely tea room, The Lodge, opposite the church, with beautiful gardens and outdoor seating, and homemade cakes.
Richmond: The Station has the cheesemaker, Simon Lacey, and a fabulous artisanal bread/sweet shop, the best bread we had the entire trip. Millgate House Gardens are well worth visiting. The junction of a number of paths outside Richmond between maps 62 and 63. It might be helpful to look into clarifying that area, although our friends did not get lost there can be confusing.
Osmotherley: the Golden Lion (across from the Queen Catherine Hotel) has great food and is a lovely pub/inn
P. 211: Lord Stones Café is closed on Mondays. John Woolston writes: 'The owner & proprietor of the Lord Stones cafe, Mr Simpson ... an interesting guy & a wonderful place to camp. I have never had so much choice of where to pitch a tent, & once pitched,...the most stunning views looking towards the north Yorks coast & the chemical works around Middlesborough. The food is very filling & very good value, with cheap beer, & half a dozen guinea fowl for company, possibly the best backpacking campsite I have ever stayed at. (NB. See below for update June 2011)
Robin Hood's Bay: the Wayfarer has fantastic food, but you need to reserve in advance. Some people celebrate the end of the walk by swimming in the ocean, which none of the indigenous peoples seemed to be doing. I assume that there is no danger, but if there is, it should be noted. I didn't see any warning signs.
Further information on accommodation, April 2010
After completing the Coast to Coast route this year (Sat 20 March - Thu 1 April 2010) I wanted to share some information regarding accommodation which your readers may find useful. Found the guide invaluable from start to finish - thank you.
I contacted each accommodation when planning our route; many didn't want a deposit with it being early in the season, but at least they knew we would be coming.
We had no support during our trip, so carried all our clothes & camping equipment ourselves - this became a bit weary during the second week, especially on the long flat sections; so seriously consider your kit requirements.
We tended to get food supplies from the Co-Op in the evening, such as their meal deals, then we could set off early in the morning and graze on snacks during the day. Then we were ready for a quality pub meal each evening.
St Bees to Low Gillerthwaite Field Centre - very ambitious for our first day; we under-estimated how our pack weight would slow us down. Instead we camped (asking for permission first) at the Scout camp at the nearside of Ennerdale Water.
The Fox & Hounds pub at Ennerdale Bridge was still shut.
Food at the Shepherd's Arms was good and plentiful, but we would have liked more help from staff on campsites and C2C related information.
We camped at Stonethwaite Farm; a beautiful setting with just a toilet block with cold water, but well worth the walk further along the lane. En route, book in for an evening meal at the Langstrath - open fire, excellent food and a really warm welcome - there was a storm outside but one of the best evenings we had.
Oak Lodge Guest House is the first you come across when reaching Grasmere - small, but comfortable room and all on ground level.
Food at the Red Lion Hotel in Grasmere was wholesome and very reasonable.
The Bulls Head in Shap offer camping in their beer garden, we also had a very good evening meal and pack ups are available also.
Pennine View Caravan & Camping site in Kirkby Stephen has excellent showers (yes, with music!!!) for campers; cut off the route early instead of continuing on toward the town centre - otherwise you have to walk back up the A685 which feels like a long, long way after a long day!!
The Croglin Castle was mid-way through redecoration and wasn't serving food, but the manager was helpful and offered to run us into town for food instead.
We stopped at Park House in Keld, in their newly developed bunkhouse - AND WHAT AN EXCELLENT BUNKHOUSE IT IS!!! Very reasonably priced, we had a double room, well equipped, drying room, beautiful location. This was more of a luxury holiday cottage!
When leaving Marrick, call in at Elaine's Teas. We walked up and chilled out in their conservatory with hot chocolate and cakes. Very welcoming family.
We stopped in Richmond for supplies, and food at Richmond Fisheries (fantastic, and seats inside) before heading out to camp at St Giles Farm to reduce the distance for the following day. Very friendly owners, we camped in their garden, and had access to their (excellent) shower room just inside the house.
We'd planned to camp at the Lion Inn at Blakey, but decided to book a room due to bad weather. Well worth it, (we could have a bath!), and the rooms were very well equipped. The food served was excellent.
Hazelwood in Grosmont B&B is not en-suite.
Consider booking a caravan at Middlewood Farm in Fylingthorpe, Robin Hood's Bay. We stayed there from Thursday til Sunday, with our friends who were picking us up, so it works out very cost-effective and is good quality accommodation.
Midge Hall - truly a magical place to stop & refuel with some mouthwatering sandwiches & scones.
Mr & Mrs Pearson at Lovesome Hill Farm, whilst having a wonderful farmhouse with camping barn & B&B to stay in, also have a wonderful detached cottage to stay in, with a SPA bath to ease those aching limbs after the road walk.The view from its patio to the Cleveland hills is wonderful. All for just £52 a night with breakfast.
Map 41 - 'heavy, broken gate in wall' has been replaced by a brand new steel gate
Map 36 - Way point 069 seems to be on the wrong side of the copse, because it takes you out of your way (along the short side of the copse) before angling back towards the two trees at the top of the hill. In a long day's walking, this seems to be an unnecessary extra couple of hundred metres
Grasmere, we would like to add 'Chestnut Villa' and 'Ivy Dean' to the list of B&Bs. These are both located on the Keswick Rd going out of Grasmere (very convenient to the path). We stayed at Chestnut Villa and were made to feel very welcome by the two guys running it, Mike and Richard. Ivy Dean is next door and is run by Mike's sister.
Map 5: Cleator the Three Tuns pub is for sale and closed (October 2010)
Map 18: Grasmere - Tweedies in the Dale lodge hotel. I had an excellent evening meal (at a reasonable cost). The pub claims to be listed by CAMRA – it had a great selection of local ales on tap. The staff was very friendly. In short - a great place for a meal and a pint.
In Gt Broughton the Bay Horse is a good pub indeed.
I stayed at Dromonby Bridge B&B located a short distance west of Kirkby. Phone number 01642712226, e-mail: dromonbybridge1@tiscali.co.uk, homepage www.dromonbybridge.com. Accommodation is 30-35 GBP for a single and 45-50 for a double – depending on room size. This rather new B&B turned out to be one of the best places I stayed on my entire walk.
Map 94: An alternative place to purchase Coast-to Coast T-shirts is at Secrets, the old Drapery, New Road, ph 01947 880 401, www.coasttocoasttshirts.co.uk. It’s located close to the Forge gallery to your left if you are coming from the Dock. They have a selection of different sizes and colors, caps, badges and do mail service. I placed an order here and can recommend the place.
Marske, The Lodge Tea Room, opening hours Mar-Oct: Fri-Mon from 10.30am til 4.30pm. Nov-Feb: Sat-Sun from 11.30am til 4.30pm. Offers a selection of teas, freshly ground coffee and other light refreshments. Home-produced fare, made daily, and all products are organic.
June 2011
page 141 Orton, Cumbria. Dave & Elaine Pickersgill, Scar Side Farm B&B is on the Path. www.scarsidefarm.com 01539 624810. Has 5 bedrooms: a family room, a twin, two doubles, and a single. Also there is a Marquee Tea Room in which walkers can enjoy a cup of tea and a piece of cake.
Patterdale. Many places offer free wi-fi en route, but it's worth noting that the Glenridding Hotel, and its adjacent café, in Patterdale, offer internet access for £1 per half hour, plus the compulsory purchase of a drink. (There's actually a community cyber room in Patterdale itself, but it's open only for a few hours every Tuesday.)
Still in Patterdale, as you mention, the White Lion do breakfasts from 9am. In theory. I walked in from Side Farm and waited from 8.50-9.20 for them to open, but the place was shut tight. I think they'd fed their B&Bers, then locked up. Thank goodness for the village shop - five rashers of thick back bacon piled up in one of their standard size rolls.
p 209 Map 74. Huthwaite Green.The telephone box has been removed.
p 212 Map 76. Cringle Moor. I live on the edge of the North York Moors Park, and walk there every week, so let me mention (which none of the guide books do) that it's well worth considering the option of bypassing the climb up, then descent (VERY hazardous in sub-zero weather) of Cringle Moor by following the lower miners' track instead. This is by no means a cop-out. Yes, in good visibility there's an extensive view back towards the Dales from Cringle Moor, but any shortening of the horizon from the miners' track is really just a mathematician's niggle, and the track is far more interesting and varied than the straightforward march along the top. For my money, it's a much better walk. (If anyone's exhausted, they can repeat the exercise by following tracks to skirt Hasty Bank, but this time, they would lose the views.)
p 211 Map 76. Lord Stone's Cafe, open from 10am-5pm (last orders for food 4.15pm) and the owner is planning to close it completely for the season from the date the clocks go back in October, until an unspecified date in spring. This is quite significant, as it means that C-to-C walkers will have no access to tap water between Ingleby and the Lion Inn. The phone number no long works.
June 2011
Page 187, Richmond. Arandale Guest House, 01748 821 282, 27 Queens Road, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL10 4AL Recommended by Marilyn Smith who writes "Paul and Tina were wonderfully welcoming. The house is beautiful decorated with original art and features a hot tub, most welcome for foot-sore hikers. Internet and phone are available to guests. Breakfast are great with fresh berries or other fresh fruit. The scrambled egg with salmon was not only delicious but beautifully presented. Beds were very comfortable. One of our friends broke her leg and was moving from stop to stop in the Packhorse luggage van. Paul & Tina of Arandale not only welcomed her warmly but even bought a plastic stool for her so she could safely shower."
page 183, Map 59, Applegarth Scar. Gates have replaced stiles in and around High Applegarth and there is also a new C2C fingerpost erected.
page 193, Map 63. Colburn. The lefthand turn off the track at Colburn is now marked by a large yellow disc.
July 2011
Map 77, page 213. The path goes up through the Wainstones and not round the side.
20 July 2011
page 153 Kirkby Stephen to Keld. Worth mentioning Newbiggin on Lune as a place to stop between Keld and Kirby Steven. Trannahil was the best B&B we stayed at - and the landlady provided a taxi service to the local pub (also an excellent meal).
pge 141, Orton. Taking the footpath past Robin Hood's Grave into Orton is a pleasant alternative.
21 July 2011
Page 142, Orton, I found the most difficult to find accommodation was Orton, on the walk from Shap (especially as The George Hotel was closed and being extensively refurbished when I passed through). The place I found I wondered if I might recommend and suggest for your book. The place was called ‘The Old School House’ , phone no. 01539 624286, situated at Tebay a few miles down the road. I can not recommend them more highly.
29 July 2011
Map 51d, Page 173, Kearton, Swaledale. The map shows the track at 54.38633 -2.00551 / 54° 23.176 2° 00.340 / SD 99728 98974 continuing eastwards to join up with the road down to Healaugh and thence Reeth. In fact the track stops at the entrance to a property and the route continues only as a footpath through a pedestrian gate to join up with the road near Hilltop.
Also some west to east walkers miss the earlier left turn "passed the ruin" towards the road. This is because the ruin is gone and they should follow the wall. There is a National Park marker post to the left.
22 August 2011
Map 26, page 128, Wall after waypoint 055 is much longer, up to the stream.
Map 29, page 131, After “trees behind fence wall”: on the left side of the map is a rockfall, just before the little streams.
Map 30, page 133, The stone wall is after the Park Bridge and not before.
Map 32, page 135, a) The Shap Abbey is not on the place indicated in the map.
b) The indicated road to Keld ¾ mile is in reality not as is drawn and therefore this situation could be misleading for walkers.
Map 33, page 136, There is no ATM anymore at Bull’s Head.
24 August 2011
page 86, Moor Row, Jasmine House Bed & Breakfast is 8 miles from St Bees and the start of the coast to coast walk; the route passes by the front door. The new owners are Jean and Peter Thornton and they've recently been assessed and have satisfied the criteria set out by Quality Cumbria in respect of consistent levels of facilities, cleanliness and comfort. The website and phone number in the guide are correct. Mobile: 07801835772.
20 September 2011
Map 56, waypoint 126, the trail does not continue directly across the road. One must go left for maybe 75 - 100 yards to the stile into the field. The stile can’t be seen when entering the road.
When there are no cairns or posts, but general descriptions such as on Map 32 “Cut diagonally left across field to ruined farmhouse”, on Map 35 “Look for two isolated trees on the horizon” , and Map 58 waypoint 129 “ Can see white cairn in distance on hillside”. The comment is that what if it's raining or foggy and these things can’t be seen? Along with the comments a compass heading would be helpful.
Map 46 the diagram of the route implies that one should proceed through the standards off the summit and after some time turn right, when in fact one should go almost parallel to the standards and not leave the summit. Grouse hunting ATV’s have made false trails which can lead one to believe that one of those is the correct trail if the diagram is followed.
Are there not alternate bridal trails around Kirby Bank and Hasty Bank, which could be used in bad weather? Also an alternate around the Graystone Hills could be by Raikes’ Lane and then turning and going past Catwick Farm and Rigg Farm to rejoin the trail when it joins the road, again in bad weather?
November 2011
Trenholme Bar, Northallerton. Swan House Bed & Breakfast and Caravan Park. www.swanhousebedandbreakfast.com Tel: 01642 700555, Mob: 07930855205
Page 89 Inset map, St Leonard's Church, Cleator is not abandoned.
Page 91 and Map 5 Dent hill is called a fell locally.
Map 3 On exiting the tunnel under the railway bear left and follow the diagonal path to the left corner of the field where there is a footbridge over the ditch..
Page 90 The Three Tuns pub is closed. If you follow the main road past the stores for 1/2 mile you come to the Brook Inn excellent Ales and food and well worth the 1 mile round trip. On leaving the pub if you walk through the old Kangol factory you rejoin the path at the end of the road opposite Cleator stores.
Page 92 The Fox and Hounds is now run by the village. Great food and beer.
November 2011
page 141, Orton, Map 37 shows Scar Side Farm. A super B&B actually on the route, so you don’t have to divert into Orton itself. www.scarsidefarm.com First class accommodation and delicious breakfast!
page 145, Map 40 “Duckboard” ford has been replaced by “Sleeper Bridge”.
