INTRODUCTION 10
PART 1: PLANNING YOUR TRIP
With a group or on your own?
Independent trekking not an option 17 With friends 17 On your own? 18
Budgeting
Accommodation 20 Food 20 Transport 20
When to go 20
Booking your trek
Booking with an agency at home 22 Booking with an agency in Tanzania 32 Signing the contract 35 The cost: whys it all so expensive? 36 Tipping 38
The crew
Porters 38 Guides 46
Getting to Kilimanjaro
By air 48 Overland 49
Route options
Getting to the mountain 50 Getting up the mountain 50
What to take
Clothes 55 Other equipment 57 What to pack it in 61
Health precautions, inoculations and insurance
Fitness 62 Inoculations 62 Insurance 64
PART 2: TANZANIA
Facts about the country
Geography 65 Climate 66 History 66 Economy 70 The people 70
Practical information for the visitor
Documents and visas 71 Airport tax 72 Money 72 Tourist offices 74 Getting around 74 Accommodation 75 Electricity 76 Time 76 Post and telecommunications 76 Holidays and festivals 78 Food 78 Drinks 79 Things to buy 79 Security 79 Health 80
PART 3: KILIMANJARO
Geology
The glaciers 82
Climate 85
The history of Kilimanjaro
Early history 86 The outsiders arrive 88 The 1800s: Pioneers... 90 ...and preachers 91 First attempts at the summit 97 Colonization 99 Kilimanjaro conquered 101 After Meyer 105 Kilimanjaro today 107
Flora and fauna
Flora 110 Fauna 112
The people of Kilimanjaro: the Chagga
Origins 117 Social structure and village life 118 Religion and ceremonies 119 Kilimanjaro economy 123
PART 4: ARRIVING IN EAST AFRICA: NAIROBI, DAR ES SALAAM
KILIMANJARO AIRPORT
Dar es Salaam
Arrival 125 Orientation and getting around 125 Services 125 Where to stay 126 Where to eat 130 A tour of the city 131 Moving on to Kilimanjaro 132
Nairobi
Security 135 Arrival 135 Orientation and getting around 136 Services 138 Where to stay 139 Where to eat 140 A tour of the city 141 Moving on to Kilimanjaro 143
Kilimanjaro International Airport 144
PART 5: ARUSHA, MOSHI AND MARANGU
Arusha
Arrival 145 Orientation and getting around 146 Services 147 Where to stay 151 Where to eat and drink 156 Nightlife 159 What to do 160 Trekking agencies 161 Getting away 167
Moshi
Arrival 169 Orientation and getting around 170 Services 170 Where to stay 172 Where to eat and drink 177 Trekking agencies 181 Getting away 188
Marangu
Arrival 190 Services 190 Where to stay 190 Trekking agencies 192 What to do 194 Getting away 196
PART 6: MINIMUM IMPACT AND SAFE TREKKING
Minimum impact trekking 197
Safe trekking
What is AMS 200 Go pole pole if you dont want to feel poorly poorly: how to avoid AMS 203 How to treat it 205 Other potential health problems 206
PART 7: Mount Meru
Introduction 209 Practicalities 210 Stage 1: Momela Gate to Miriakamba Huts 212 Map A 214 Stage 2: Miriakamba Huts to Saddle Huts 215 Map B 217 Stage 3: Saddle Huts to Meru Summit 218 Stage 4: Miriakamba Huts to Momela Gate 219
PART 8: TRAIL GUIDE AND MAPS
Using this guide
About the maps in this guide 220
The Marangu Route
Stage 1: Marangu Gate to Mandara Huts 226 Map 1 227
Stage 2: Mandara Huts to Horombo Huts 229 Map 2 231 Map 3 232
Stage 3: Horombo Huts to Kibo Huts 232 Map 4 233
Stage 4: Kibo Huts to Gillmans Point and Uhuru Peak 234 Map 5 236
The Machame Route
Stage 1: Machame Gate to Machame Huts 239 Map 6 240 Map 7 241
Stage 2: Machame Huts to the New Shira Camp 242 Map 8 243
Stage 3: New Shira Camp to Barranco Huts 244 Map 9 244 Map 10 245
Stage 4: Barranco Huts to Barafu Huts 247 Map 11 248
Stage 5: Barafu Huts to Stella Point and Uhuru Peak 249 Map 12 250
The Shira Plateau and Lemosho routes
Stage 1: Londorossi Gate to Mti Mkubwa/Big Tree Camp 255 Map 13 257
Stage 2: Mti Mkubwa/Big Tree Camp to Shira 1 258 Map 14 259
Stage 3: Shira 1 to Shira Huts/Fischer Camp 261 Map 15 262
Stage 4: Shira Huts/Fischer Camp to Lava Tower 264 Map 16 265
Stage 5: Lava Tower to Arrow Glacier Campsite 267
Stage 6: Western Breach: Arrow Glacier to Uhuru Peak 267 Map 17 269
The Shira Plateau Route 272 Map 18 273
The Rongai Route
Preparation 275
Stage 1: Loitokitok village to First Cave Campsite 276 Map 19 277
Stage 2: First Cave Campsite to Third Cave Campsite 278 Map 20 279
The Mawenzi Tarn Hut Route 280 Map 20A 281
Stage 3: Third Cave Campsite to School Hut 282 Map 21 283
Stage 4: School Hut to the Kibo Huts Route and Gillmans Point 283 Map 22 284
Umbwe Route
Stage 1: Umbwe Gate to Umbwe Cave Campsite 286 Map 23 287
Stage 2: Umbwe Cave Campsite to Barranco Huts 288 Map 24 289
Stage 3: Barranco Huts to Lava Tower Campsite 290
The descent routes
Marangu Route 292 Returning via the Mawenzi Route 292 Map 25 293 Mweka Route 294 Map 26 296 Map 27 298
PART 9: THE SUMMIT
Whats at the top?
Walking on the summit 300 Map 28 301
APPENDICES
A: Swahili 303
B: Flights to Kilimanjaro 305
C: Tanzanian and Kenyan embassies abroad 306
D: Useful websites 308
E: Recommended reading, listening and watching 309
INDEX 315
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