TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

Tibet – a destination and a journey 9 – Overland travel in Tibet 10 – How to use this guidebook 12 – Special issues for travellers in Tibet 14

PART 1: PLANNING

Overland travel options
Jeep tours 17 – Mountain-bike tours 17 – Independent cyclists 17

When to go
Seasons 19 – Further information 19

Visas and permits
Visas 20 – Travel permits 21 – Other permits 22

Costs and money
Costs 23 – Money 23

Mountain-biking in Tibet
What bike? 23 – Equipment 24 – Preparation and risk limitation 24 – Routes – levels of difficulty 25 – Road conditions 25 – Hazards on the road 26 – Food and drink for cyclists 26

What to take
Clothing 27 – Equipment 28 – Photography equipment 29 – Bicycle equipment 30 – Topographical maps 31 – Road maps 33 – Guidebooks 33

Language 34

Travellers’ health
Before you go 35 – Tibet-specific health issues 35

Women travellers in Tibet
Preparation 41 – Specific health issues 42 – Safety and other issues 43

Planning
Getting to Tibet
Mainland China from Hong Kong 43 – Tibet from mainland China 45 – Tibet from Nepal 46

PART 2: LHASA

City guide
Introduction 47 – History 48 – Information 49 – Maps 50 – Services 52 – Where to stay 53 – Where to eat 53 – What to see 54 – Transport 58

Around Lhasa 60

PART 3: ROUTE GUIDE

Lhasa to Ganden and beyond
Introduction 63 – Information for cyclists 63 – Lhasa to Ganden 64 – Ganden monastery 66 – Beyond Ganden 68

Lhasa to Nam Tso
Introduction 70 – Warnings 70 – Accommodation and food 71 – Bus travel 72 – Information for cyclists 72 – Lhasa to Yangpachen 74 – Yangpachen to Damshung 78 – Damshung to Largen la 78 – Largen la to Nam Tso 79

Lhasa to Yarlung Valley
Introduction 81 – Information for cyclists 82 – Main sights en route 83 – Tsetang and its surroundings 93 – Yarlung Valley 94

Friendship Highway – Lhasa to Kathmandu (Southern F’ship Hwy)
Introduction 96 – Lhasa to Pede Dzong 98 – Pede Dzong to Gyantse 100 – Gyantse to Shigatse 109 – Shigatse to Lhatse 115 – Lhatse to Dingri 118 – Dingri to Dram 122 – Dram to Kathmandu 125

Central Friendship Highway 128

Northern Friendship Highway 129

Everest Base Camp
Introduction 131 – Chay to Mt Everest Base Camp 132

Qinghai-Tibet Highway (Xining to Golmud to Lhasa)
Introduction 138 – Lanzhou 139 – Xining 140 – Xining to Golmud 141 – Golmud 142 – Golmud to Lhasa 144

Sichuan-/Yunnan-Tibet Highways
Introduction 147 – Cycling/by bus/hitching 149 – Route options 149 – Chengdu 149 – Sichuan-Tibet Highway (Southern Route – Chengdu to Lhasa) 150 – Sichuan-Tibet Highway (Northern Route – Chengdu to Lhasa) 154 – Yunnan-Tibet Highway (Dali to Markham/Lhasa) 156

Xinjiang-Tibet Highway (Lhasa to Mt Kailash and Kashgar)
Introduction 158 – Getting to Mt Kailash 160 – Southern route to Mt Kailash 161 – Mt Kailash to Ali 166 – The Paiko Tso shortcut 169 – Kashgar to Ali 169

PART 4: MOUNTAIN-BIKING IN NEPAL

Introduction 172 – When to go 172 – Visas and permits 173 – Other useful information 174

Four classic mountain-biking routes in Nepal
Classic route 1: Nagarkot Vista Tour 175
Classic route 2: Northern Valley Rim 176
Classic route 3: Touring routes 177
Classic route 4: Pokhara Lakeside to Sarangkot and beyond 179

APPENDICES

A brief history of Tibet 181

Tibetan Buddhism 186