INTRODUCTION
Tibet a destination and a journey 9 Overland travel in Tibet 10 How to use this guidebook 12 Special issues for travellers in Tibet 14
PART 1: PLANNING
Overland travel options
Jeep tours 17 Mountain-bike tours 17 Independent cyclists 17
When to go
Seasons 19 Further information 19
Visas and permits
Visas 20 Travel permits 21 Other permits 22
Costs and money
Costs 23 Money 23
Mountain-biking in Tibet
What bike? 23 Equipment 24 Preparation and risk limitation 24 Routes levels of difficulty 25 Road conditions 25 Hazards on the road 26 Food and drink for cyclists 26
What to take
Clothing 27 Equipment 28 Photography equipment 29 Bicycle equipment 30 Topographical maps 31 Road maps 33 Guidebooks 33
Language 34
Travellers health
Before you go 35 Tibet-specific health issues 35
Women travellers in Tibet
Preparation 41 Specific health issues 42 Safety and other issues 43
Planning
Getting to Tibet
Mainland China from Hong Kong 43 Tibet from mainland China 45 Tibet from Nepal 46
PART 2: LHASA
City guide
Introduction 47 History 48 Information 49 Maps 50 Services 52 Where to stay 53 Where to eat 53 What to see 54 Transport 58
Around Lhasa 60
PART 3: ROUTE GUIDE
Lhasa to Ganden and beyond
Introduction 63 Information for cyclists 63 Lhasa to Ganden 64 Ganden monastery 66 Beyond Ganden 68
Lhasa to Nam Tso
Introduction 70 Warnings 70 Accommodation and food 71 Bus travel 72 Information for cyclists 72 Lhasa to Yangpachen 74 Yangpachen to Damshung 78 Damshung to Largen la 78 Largen la to Nam Tso 79
Lhasa to Yarlung Valley
Introduction 81 Information for cyclists 82 Main sights en route 83 Tsetang and its surroundings 93 Yarlung Valley 94
Friendship Highway Lhasa to Kathmandu (Southern Fship Hwy)
Introduction 96 Lhasa to Pede Dzong 98 Pede Dzong to Gyantse 100 Gyantse to Shigatse 109 Shigatse to Lhatse 115 Lhatse to Dingri 118 Dingri to Dram 122 Dram to Kathmandu 125
Central Friendship Highway 128
Northern Friendship Highway 129
Everest Base Camp
Introduction 131 Chay to Mt Everest Base Camp 132
Qinghai-Tibet Highway (Xining to Golmud to Lhasa)
Introduction 138 Lanzhou 139 Xining 140 Xining to Golmud 141 Golmud 142 Golmud to Lhasa 144
Sichuan-/Yunnan-Tibet Highways
Introduction 147 Cycling/by bus/hitching 149 Route options 149 Chengdu 149 Sichuan-Tibet Highway (Southern Route Chengdu to Lhasa) 150 Sichuan-Tibet Highway (Northern Route Chengdu to Lhasa) 154 Yunnan-Tibet Highway (Dali to Markham/Lhasa) 156
Xinjiang-Tibet Highway (Lhasa to Mt Kailash and Kashgar)
Introduction 158 Getting to Mt Kailash 160 Southern route to Mt Kailash 161 Mt Kailash to Ali 166 The Paiko Tso shortcut 169 Kashgar to Ali 169
PART 4: MOUNTAIN-BIKING IN NEPAL
Introduction 172 When to go 172 Visas and permits 173 Other useful information 174
Four classic mountain-biking routes in Nepal
Classic route 1: Nagarkot Vista Tour 175
Classic route 2: Northern Valley Rim 176
Classic route 3: Touring routes 177
Classic route 4: Pokhara Lakeside to Sarangkot and beyond 179
APPENDICES
A brief history of Tibet 181
Tibetan Buddhism 186
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