TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

PART 1: PLANNING YOUR TREK
What is trekking?
Trekking in the Khumbu 10

With a group or on your own?
Independent teahouse trekking 11 - Commercial guided treks 12 - Nepali trekking agencies 15 - Trekking agencies outside Nepal 16 (UK and Ireland 17, Continental Europe 18, USA 19, Canada 19, Australia 20, New Zealand 21)

How long to go for 21

Route options
Walking in or out 22 - Flying in 24 - Route options above Namche 26 - Leaving the region 29 - Other options 30 - Other activities 31

Budgeting
Costs in Kathmandu 36 - The trekking budget 37 - Currency 37

When to go
Seasonal conditions 39 - The Kathmandu climate 42

What to take
Factors affecting equipment selection 42 - Equipment list 44 - Renting or buying equipment in Nepal 51 - Adventure trekking equipment 52 - Recommended reading 54 - Map recommendations 55

Health precautions and inoculations
Specific age groups 57 - Medical conditions 58 - Inoculations 59 - Medical insurance 60

PART 2: NEPAL
Facts about the country
Geographical background 61 - Climate 62 - Historical outline 62 - Economy 67 - Development 68

Practical information for the visitor
Visa and trekking regulations 69 - Getting to Nepal 71 - Local transport 72 - Language 73 - Electricity 73 - Time 74 - Money 74 - Post and telecommunications 75 - TV, radio, newspapers and magazines 75 - Holidays and festivals 76 - Food 77 - Drink 77 - Things to buy 78 - Security 78

PART 3: KATHMANDU
The city
History 81 - Arrival and departure 83 - Orientation 84 - Where to stay 84 - Where to eat 91 - Nightlife 96 - Services 96 - Transport 98 - What to see 98 - Sightseeing tours 100

KATHMANDU
Trek preparation in Kathmandu
Trekking equipment 101 - Organizing a guided trek in Kathmandu 102 - Hiring guides and porters 104 - Money for the trek 106 - Luggage storage 106 - Getting to the Khumbu 106

PART 4: THE EVEREST REGION
Mountaineering history
Everest 109 - Cho Oyu 120 - Makalu 121 - Lhotse 121

The people
The Sherpas (Origins 122, Agriculture 123, Diet 124, The Sherpa house 124, The Sherpa view of life 125, Mountaineers, sirdars and porters 126 - Coping with development 126)

The Rai
(Origins 127, Religion 127, Agriculture and work 128 - Values 128)

National parks
Sagarmatha National Park 129 - Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area (MBNPCA) 130

Facilities for the trekker
Accommodation and food 131 - Shops, banks and post offices 134

Minimum impact trekking
Environmental concerns 136 - Cultural considerations 139 - Economic impact 140

PART 5: ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS
Using this guide
(Route descriptions 142, Village and feature names 142, Trail maps 142 - Following trails 143, Walking times 143, Altitudes 144, Facilities 144 - Map key 145)

Jiri to Namche
Introduction 145 - Kathmandu to Jiri 146 - Jiri 147 - Jiri to Shivalaya 148 - Shivalaya to Bhandar 149 - Bhandar to Junbesi 151 - Junbesi 155 –Junbesi to Bupsa 156 - Bupsa to Surke/Lukla/Namche 162

Trekking from Lukla
Introduction 165 - Lukla 165 - Lukla to Namche 168 - Namche 174 - Around Namche 178 - Namche to Thame 182

To Lobuche and Kala Pattar
Namche to Tengboche 185 - Tengboche 186 - Tengboche to Pheriche/Dingboche 189 - To and around Chukhung 195 - Pheriche/Dingboche to Lobuche 196 - Lobuche to Gorak Shep and Kala Pattar 200 - Heading down 203

To Gokyo
Introduction 204 - Namche to Gokyo 204 - Gokyo and around 210 - To and from Phortse 213 - Chugyima La 215 - Chugyima La to Gokyo 216

Khumbu side trips and pass-hopping
Khumbu to Makalu 218 - Kongma La 219 - Peak 220 - Amphu Labtsa 220 - Mingbo Valley 221 - The Bhote Valley 221 - Kyajo 223 - Phaplu start 223 - To Chialsa 224

Salpa-Arun to the Khumbu
Introduction 226 - Getting to eastern Nepal 228 - Basantpur to Tumlingtar 230 - Hille Leguwa to Tumlingtar 231 - Tumlingtar 232 - Tumlingtar to Balawa Besi 232 - Balawa Besi to Jau Bari 234 - Jau Bari to Sanam 239 - Sanam to Najing Dingma 241 - Gai Kharka to Puiyan 246

From Bhojpur
Bhojpur 248 - Bhojpur to Dingla 248 - Dingla 249

Rolwaling
Introduction 250 - The Rolwaling Valley 252 - Simigoan to Dolakha/Charikot 256 - Gongar to Barabise 259

Trekking peaks
Preparation 261 - Imjatse/Island Peak 264 - Mera 266 - Lobuche 271 - Parcharmo 271 - Pokalde/Dolma Ri 271 - Other trekking peaks in the region 272

APPENDICES

A.Itineraries and acclimatization planner 273
B.Health 276
C.Flora and fauna 294
D.Nepali words and phrases 296
E.Glossary 298
F.Bibliography 299

INDEX