The Ridgeway stretches 87 miles (139km) across five counties, starting at Overton Hill near Avebury in Wiltshire and passing through Oxfordshire, Berkshire and Hertfordshire and ending at Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire. Part of a network of tracks that from time immemorial naturally evolved all over the country, the Ridgeway was used by travellers, traders and drovers. Nowadays it is used only by travellers, most of them walking for pleasure. It is easily accessible from major cities such as Swindon, Oxford, Reading and London making it an ideal place to ramble, yet few seem to take the opportunity.
From its starting point in Wiltshire, the trail immediately takes you up onto high ground with views of the countryside which change with the light and stretch endlessly to the horizon. Walking up here can be isolated and it is open to the elements but it is exhilarating; on sunny days the air is wonderful, filling you with energy and physical well-being. You’re unlikely to meet many people.
The path descends as it gets closer to the River Thames and its character changes completely. You’ll pass through a number of attractive villages as the trail runs parallel to the banks of the river before turning eastwards to start the next distinctive stage. Woodland is now the principal feature as you walk through the undulating landscape, passing through market towns and villages before finishing back out on high, exposed terrain.
Overton Hill in Wiltshire marks the present-day start of the trail but you are soon back in the distant past with the huge Iron Age forts of Barbury Castle and Liddington Castle. More ancient remains are at Wayland’s Smithy, a Neolithic long barrow, before you reach the magnificent Uffington White Horse. From here on you are likely to be treading a solitary path for some miles, open to all weathers. This is one of the most enjoyable sections of the Ridgeway: in blissful solitude you can look down at the towns and villages far below.
After reaching the village of East Ilsley you’ll note the environment starting to change. Human habitation becomes more frequent, and you continue downhill. You’ll arrive at the village of Streatley, on the banks of the Thames, before crossing the bridge into the neighbouring town of Goring. From here an easy trail runs along the tranquil banks of the Thames for several miles, passing through the attractive villages of South Stoke and North Stoke, then turns eastwards just before the towns of Wallingford and Crowmarsh Gifford.
The path now follows an ancient earthwork, Grim’s Ditch, for several miles until it reaches Nuffield where the Ridgeway crosses a golf course. From here on the woodlands become a frequent companion with many ascents and descents before you can visit some of the old market towns just off the official route, such as Watlington, Chinnor and Princes Risborough. The trail continues through some fine beech woods; from the occasional clearings you look down on the landscape far below. The route then goes through the Chequers Estate, traditional country home of the Prime Minister. Later it passes close to small, picturesque villages such as Wigginton and Aldbury, after which it climbs steadily as it enters the final section of woodland. When the trees thin out you can see your goal up ahead in the distance, several more hills away. At the end of the path, at Ivinghoe Beacon, you may be tired but you’ll be rewarded by some spectacular, panoramic views of the countryside below.
Walking the Ridgeway is not difficult. It can be done in five days but this won’t leave much time for relaxation or for enjoying the countryside you are walking through. You should also allow time to explore some of the towns along the way.
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