BROAD HAVEN TO CASTLEMARTIN MAPS 12-15
There is a choice of route here. The route proper continues across the cliff tops through the Castlemartin MoD firing range, said to be one of NATO’s most important training areas in Europe. Covering 5880 acres it also hides some of the finest limestone cliff scenery in Britain. Unfortunately it is closed to the public when firing is taking place. It is well worth checking the opening times (tel 01646-662367) since the detour is a monotonous trudge along a boring road.
There are two points where the path may be closed (indicated by a red flag). The first is just above Broad Haven beach and the other is at St Govan’s. At both points there are roads which take you to Bosherston and on to the alternative road route described below.
Via Stack Rocks Maps 12, 13, 14, 15
If the range is open it is ten miles (16km, 3hrs 15mins-4hrs) to Castlemartin, following the jeep track along the flat limestone cliff tops. The cliffs, when you can see them, are spectacular but signs along the track warn you to stick to the path through the firing range. There are many rewards to walking this route as opposed to the road detour, the first of which is at St Govan’s.
St Govan’s Chapel, sitting just before the sentry box into the MoD range, should not be missed. It’s in an extraordinary location hidden down some steep stone steps in a cleft. A tiny stone chapel, cold, dark and empty inside, it is squeezed between sheer rocky cliffs which seem to prevent it from falling into the heaving sea below.
On entering the Castlemartin firing range follow the jeep track across open grassland and scrubland with vertical limestone cliffs to your left all the way to the dead-end road at Stack Rocks or Elegug Stacks, two impressive sea stacks sitting a short way offshore. A little further on, past the car park, is the natural arch known as the Green Bridge of Wales, a spectacular sight when the waves are crashing around it and the gulls are wheeling above the cliff tops. It’s only a three-minute detour from the coast path.
From here you must follow the lane which takes you inland across the firing range to the main B4319 road. There are two options here; turn left for the quicker route along the main road to Castlemartin or turn right to follow the country lanes through the villages of Merrion and Warren. These villages are pretty enough and country lanes are always preferable to main roads but the truth is you really won’t miss much if you choose to take the quicker, main road route.
BOSHERSTON MAP 12
If you are taking the road detour either from Broad Haven or St Govan’s you will pass through this quaint little village with its photogenic church. Even if you are taking the cliff-top route through the military firing range it is worth making the short detour to the village.
This is partly because it is the only place with any accommodation along this stretch and also because it gives you the opportunity to explore the intricate creeks and woodland of Bosherston lily ponds. These peaceful lakes, reed beds and heavily wooded slopes contrast greatly with the crashing waves on the beach. It’s a great place to spot wildlife. Otters can sometimes be seen at dusk if you are quiet and there is plenty of birdlife from coots and moorhens to herons and buzzards.
The No 387/388 Coastal Cruiser bus services go via Bosherston on the looping journey between Pembroke Dock and St Govan’s Head. See public transport map and table pp39-41 for further details.
The village itself is small and compact with a tiny shop and toilets on the main street. At the end of the main street is St Govan’s Inn (tel 01646-661455, trefalen@trefalen.f9.co.uk; food served daily 12-2.30pm and 6.30-9pm; 2T/1D/1F). They do B&B from £35 a night in the smart en suite rooms upstairs (no single supplement).
Opposite the church there is B&B at Cornerstones (tel 01646-661660, 1S/2D/1F) with en suite rooms from £32.50/ pp. Ask for James; if he has no space he can usually direct you to somewhere that does.
There are two places serving food; St Govan’s Inn (see p90) is a hugely and deservedly popular place with a vast and delicious menu, including curries and lamb shank in rosemary and a red wine jus; while Bosherton Café (tel 01646-661216; daily 9am-7pm) has a wide variety of snacks which you can eat in their big front garden.
Detour route via Bosherston Maps 12, 12a, 14, 15
If the Castlemartin firing range is closed you must follow the road north via Bosherston. The village of Bosherston and the lily ponds of the same name are the only real highlights if you are going this way. Otherwise these six and a half miles (10km, 2-2hrs 30mins) comprise a rather tedious trudge along roads hemmed in by high hedges. If you have the time, it really is worth waiting for the trail through the firing range to reopen.
From Broad Haven, where the main path crosses the stone bridge at the southern tip of the lily ponds, you must follow the path inland up the east bank of the beautiful lake, crossing the three bridges over the arms of the lake and up the steep rocky track to Bosherston.
Here the road heads north through farmland to Sampson Cross and then along the very straight and boring B4319 road to the turn off for Merrion where you rejoin the main coast path.
At Merrion you can continue along the B4319 road which is a bit quicker but slightly more tedious. However, the better route follows the country lanes through Merrion and Warren, where there is a nice church, St Mary’s, all the way to Castlemartin.
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