DRYMEN TO BALMAHA MAPS 8-11
ROUTE OVERVIEW
This is a wonderful seven-mile (11km) section to the edge of the Highlands. Wide tracks climb gently through Garadhban Forest, a large mature conifer plantation, to a clearing where the trail divides (1-11/4hrs).
The easier route descends to Milton of Buchanan and follows the pavement beside a ‘B’ road for almost 2 miles (3km) to Balmaha (45-60 mins).
The tiring yet spectacular high route (one and a half to two hours) winds through more forest and then out onto open moorland before ascending to just below the top of Conic Hill (361m/1184ft), see box below.
A short climb to one of the multiple summits gives an incredible vantage point over Loch Lomond and the surrounding countryside. The steep descent takes you swiftly down to the honey-pot hamlet of Balmaha on the loch shore; a hive of boating activity in summer.
Dogs are not allowed on the high route at any time of the year and it is closed to all walkers in the lambing season from mid-April to mid-May when you must take the low route via Milton.
SERVICES – DRYMEN TO BALMAHA
Milton of Buchanan Map 9
Milton is a tiny hamlet on the quicker alternative route to Balmaha, along the main road (B837) avoiding Conic Hill.
Even if you wanted to continue over Conic Hill it takes only 15 to 20 minutes to walk down to the two B&Bs here. Mar Achlais (tel 01360-870300, web www.dellta.org/marachlais, 1D/1F) has accommodation for £27 (£37 for single occupancy) and will provide an evening meal for £14.50 if booked in advance.
Milton is on McColls No 309 bus route from Balmaha to Drymen, Balloch and Alexandria (see public transport map and table pp38-41).
On the western side of Garadhban Forest (pronounced ‘garavan’) due north of Milton of Buchanan there is a clearing deep within the conifer trees where backpackers are permitted to camp (see map 10). It is free to camp here; all that is asked is that campers don’t light fires and leave the site by 10am.
There are no facilities whatsoever and, unlike many of the other wild sites, it has little to recommend it: there is no water in the immediate vicinity, it can get quite muddy and because of the shade you should be prepared for a midge attack. However, a little further along the trail is a much more attractive clearing where you may prefer to camp.
BALMAHA Map 11
A small village underneath Conic Hill situated round an idyllic bay providing a sheltered anchorage for pleasure boats.
It’s also a convenient departure point for cruises round the string of islands stretching across Loch Lomond to the western shore. MacFarlane and Son (tel 01360-870214, www.balmahaboatyard.co.uk) at the boatyard run trips throughout the year at 2pm, 3pm, 4pm and 4.30pm from £3 per person.
Rowing boats can be hired for £10 an hour. They also operate a service to both Port Bawn and North Pier on Inchcailloch for £4/2 per adult/child.
Sadly, what once must have been a pretty hamlet has been spoiled by modern tourist development. On a summer weekend the car park, bigger than the village itself, can swell to capacity as hordes drive to Loch Lomond’s ‘secluded’ eastern shore to enjoy the ‘freedom’ of the countryside. This popularity does of course mean there is plenty of accommodation for the walker.
Services
The National Park Centre (tel 01389-722100, Apr-Oct, Mon-Fri 10.30am-5pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am-6pm) in the car park provides information on the area including an interesting exhibition on the geology. There is a small gift shop with guide books and maps.
Creative Crafts (daily 9am-9pm in the main season), as well as selling trinkets for the tourists, has a selection of emergency items for walkers: snack food, socks, plasters, maps, film.
There are buses to Milton of Buchanan, Drymen, Balloch and Alexandria (see public transport map pp38-41).
Where to stay and eat
In the summer months campers will find an excellent spot to pitch a tent at Port Bawn on the island of Inchcailloch. This simple site has a toilet and washing facilities and can be reached by catching the small ferry operated by MacFarlane and Son.
As you walk out of the car park into Balmaha, directly opposite is the walker-friendly Oak Tree Inn (tel 01360-870357, www.oak-tree-inn.co.uk, 3T/4D/1F) constructed from local timber and slate.
They have a wide range of food (served daily 12-8.45pm) including toasties for £4.45, or steak pie for £8.45. They also do packed lunches for £4.50. B&B costs £37.50 (£75 single occupancy) and there are also two bunkhouse rooms which sleep four and cost £25 per person which includes breakfast (£20 without breakfast). There are no cooking facilities.
For something more homely one of the best places to stay is Passfoot Cottage (tel 01360-870324, www.passfoot.com, Apr-Sep, 1D/1T, shared bathroom), a sweet traditional cottage overlooking the bay and away from the tourist hubbub. B&B is £28.50 per person.
Other places to consider are Bay Cottage (tel 01360-870346, www.visit-lochlomond.com/baycottage, Mar-Oct, 1S/ 1T/3F) which does B&B for £30 including use of the hot tub; a packed lunch costs £5 and the owner will do a load of washing for £5 if requested.
Balmaha House (tel 01360-870218; email lomondadventure@aol.com; 1S/2D all en suite) is open all year but book in advance. The rate for two in a double is from £28 per person and the single room is from £30.
At the time of writing the former Highland Way Hotel and Balmaha Bunkhouse Lodge were about to be demolished, to be replaced with holiday lodges, a restaurant and bar.
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