If you've given up on attempting to master the spoken word (see p313), you will be pleased to know that it is a lot easier to be fluent in the body language of the Near East. Knowing certain gestures can make communication easier, and more fun. Here are a few of the essentials:
No: Throw your head back and tut. A raise of the eyebrows is common too. At first it seems terribly illmannered, as if the gesticulator is being contemptuously dismissive of the enquiry.
I don't understand: You're asked a question but do not know the Arabic or Turkish for 'No', and so you shake your head instead. Except that in the Near East, a shake of the head means 'I don't understand', and so the question will be asked again, and again, and again....!
Wait/Calm down: Pinch the fingers on one hand together, point them upwards, and hold them out in front of you. For a demonstration, attempt to hurry somebody up. You'll doubtless receive this gesture in reply.
What do you want?: Hold your hand out as if you're about to shake somebody's hand. Now open the fingers, and rapidly rotate the hand so that the palm now points upwards.
Come here: Imagine you've just robbed a fruit machine and the proceeds lie all over a waisthigh table. Quickly scrape the coins into a bag by your foot with one arm without bending it at the elbow. You are now making the gesture for 'come here'.
Show me your passport/ticket/document: The official will trace a line across the palm of his hand with the index finger of his other hand.
Enough/I am full (when referring to food): Place your hand on your heart and give a big smile. If it's a drink that is being offered, place your hand over the cup.
It is worth noting too that the Arabs are a demonstrative, tactile people. Do not be surprised, therefore, if somebody takes you by the arm if you have asked them for directions. It is not sexual, just part of the Arab way. The same treatment may be meted out to women; providing it's the hand he is leading you by, there is no need to feel too alarmed.
ETIQUETTE - THE ART OF NOT CAUSING OFFENCE
Even more important than learning which gesture means what is learning which gestures shouldn't be used at all. Pointing at someone is derogatory. Point with your fingers and you're asking for trouble; point with your foot, and you'll probably get it. If you do wish to indicate someone, nod your head in their direction. Don't use your left hand when you're eating either, particularly if you are eating from a communal bowl. The Arabs come up with all sorts of stories about how this tradition came about there is a devil on your left shoulder, Mohammed ate with his right hand etc but the main reason is that the left hand is the toilet paper substitute.
Most of the other 'forbiddens' are just simple courtesies common to most of the world: avoid canoodling with your partner(s) in public; don't blow your nose in public or make a great display of picking your teeth in a restaurant (cover your mouth with your other hand); dress conservatively in towns and cities and avoid conspicuous smoking and eating during Ramadan.
When in Turkey, do not insult Atatürk. It causes great offence to Turks to have their hero slandered and there is actually a law against it. There is also a law against insulting Syria's President Assad, so be careful whom you talk to and what you talk about.
Mosque etiquette
Some of the oldest and holiest mosques in the Islamic world are in this region. The etiquette for visiting them is always the same. First, don't visit during prayer times (signalled by the call to prayer five times a day) and avoid Fridays. Second, don't wear revealing clothes. Robes are often provided but it is as well to come prepared. Third, before entering, remove your shoes. Be quiet when inside; there are often people praying, so don't distract them with flash photography or loud conversation.
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