WITH A GROUP OR ON YOUR OWN?
'Travelling with anyone is a very ticklish business...What is your thrill may be my bore....I cannot imagine what fire and pillage I would commit if anyone were in a position to keep me looking at things longer than I wanted to look.'
Cornelia Stratton Parker, English Summer
This has to be one of the best regions in the world for travelling independently. It is very safe and, once the language barrier has been overcome, relatively easy to travel through. If you are travelling solo and worried about feeling lonely, don't be: most of this route is a welltrodden path and you'll come across fellow travellers nearly everywhere you go. In less visited countries like Syria and Lebanon the locals are undoubtedly the friendliest, kindest people I have ever encountered.
Consequently, it hardly seems worth the extra expense that comes from taking an organised tour. Nevertheless, there are plenty of agencies willing to take your money and guide you through parts of the region (see p12). There is not, as yet, any company that offers one tour through all six countries.
WHICH WAY?
This is purely a matter of choice. There is no particular advantage with starting in either Istanbul or Cairo. The route in this book begins in Istanbul because this is where most travellers start their journey.
HOW LONG?
Six to eight weeks will enable you to visit most of the main attractions in the Near East, although this won't allow you much time to lie on a beach and work on your tan. Three or four months is probably best if you plan to make a fairly thorough exploration of these six countries.
WHEN TO GO
March and April are my favourite months for travel through this region. The weather is usually fine, the tourist shoals have not yet come ashore and the prices are low. Nevertheless the Near East is one of the few areas in the world where it is both possible and enjoyable to travel at almost any time of the year.
For five of the countries on this route the weather varies little between the seasons. Egypt is hot and dry all year round, and whilst Israel, Jordan, Syria and Lebanon experience cold evenings and heavy downpours in winter this shouldn't prevent you from travelling at this time. The exception is Turkey. Between October and February a few resorts on the Turkish coast close down altogether and the interior is quilted in snow. It is still a pleasant enough experience travelling through Turkey in winter, but you should bring warm clothing and have a very flexible itinerary.
It is also advisable to avoid the Islamic holy month of Ramadan (see p40) if possible. Travelling can be problematic at this time: food, drink and cigarettes are difficult to come by during the day, opening hours are short and erratic and so are tempers. The Islamic calendar is a lunar one, so the dates differ from the Western Gregorian calendar. Dates for 19979 are 31 December 1997 to 31 January 1998 and 20 December 1998 to 20 January 1999.
BUDGETING
It is never easy to give an estimate on how much it's all going to cost. Much depends on the season since accommodation prices rise in most places during summer. Your budget also depends on your travelling style: are you going to buy souvenirs, are you willing to use the black market and patronise street stalls etc. In short, travelling through the Near East can cost as little or as much as you want. Arriving at Istanbul with US$1800 in your pocket you could suffer six months of dreadful privations until you reach Cairo, or blow it all on one night at the Istanbul Hilton. Whilst the latter option has much to recommend it, this book is aimed at those who are travelling on a fairly tight budget, although some midrange and top hotels are included for those who need a break from pennypinching.
As a very rough approximation, it is possible to scrape by on a minimum of UK£7 or US$10 per day in the low season. If you avoid Israel and Lebanon then it can be even cheaper. In the summer you should allow for a minimum of UK£12 or US$18. Take a lot more than this, however, to cover any unforeseen circumstances.
Country Ratings: Syria
Highlights
If you don't like history you may think Syria has little to offer but you'd be wrong. Both the Crac and Palmyra are more than just historical attractions; they are unique sights that really take the breath away. Syria's towns too, especially Damascus and Aleppo, are exciting and have their own supercharged atmosphere. And overlaying all of this is the hospitality of the locals, which makes the hefty visa fee (for UK citizens at least) somewhat more palatable.
Expense $$
Value for money ****
Accommodation, whilst rarely expensive, is artificially high, thanks to various laws and taxes imposed by the government.
English communication **
Try speaking French if attempts to communicate in English get you nowhere.
Getting around ****
Buses are by far the most convenient form of transport on this route through Syria.
Travellers' scene **
The 'scene', such as it is, is mainly in Palmyra or at the al-Haramain/al-Rabie hotels in Damascus.
Visible history *****
Palmyra (the Bride of the Desert), and the Crac are just two of Syria's many historical treasures.
Woman alone ****
Although Western women are still objects of curiosity here, you are far more likely to be asked to share a meal or a cup of tea than you are to be propositioned.
Good food **
Not Syria's strong suit. A cross between over-greasy Turkish cuisine (with added dust) and stale Lebanese food, without the invention or artistry of either. For some reason Hama is the exception, and their desserts, especially sweet cheese pudding, are definitely worth trying.
Vegetarian friendly ***
Felafel, felafel, felafel, hoummus, felafel.
Advice for women travellers
Women (particularly blonde women) will find themselves subject to a lot of unwanted attention in the Near East. This should not, however, deter women from travelling alone. Nearly all of this attention is harmless, and a quick 'Imshi!' ('Go away!' in Arabic) usually does the trick. Some women even prefer to travel through the Near East on their own, and their advice is always the same: provided you do not draw attention to yourself with skimpy clothes or outrageous behaviour you will be treated with respect by everyone, whatever their nationality. If somebody is being a little overaggressive in his approaches, don't hesitate to humiliate him by shouting. Embarrassment is a most effective weapon in cooling Eastern ardour.
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