While in (Thulo) Syabru take a careful look up at the hillside. Dursa Gang is straight up, following the ridge that extends up from (Thulo) Syabru. 'What ridge?' you might wonder, especially when you're only 15 minutes up and are vaguely lost; it is admittedly only a minor feature of a uniform hillside. Also look for some prayer flag poles (darche) which are on the route and perhaps half an hour up.
Dursa Gang 2700m/8858ft The couple of houses and the orchard here have the distinction of not being shown on any trekking map. The panorama is more distinguished and the 1995-built lodge is pleasant enough. (Thulo) Syabru hoteliers might say this lodge is closed to tempt you to stay with them, especially if you are having lunch and are about to press on. It is always open.
Continuing up, the trail soon enters the forest. Churned patches of the forest floor are made by wild pigs rooting with their snouts for edible roots. They make a lot of noise so you'll hear them if they are nearby. Pigs also like munching crops. Previously this would earn them death but now they are protected under national park rules. Gradually the trail climbs out of the forest and rejoins the crest of the ridge at a modest collection of teashops.
Danda teashops 3200m/10,500ft During the main seasons it is possible to stay here but they are often closed in winter. The outdoor benches take in a beautiful panorama. Looking north, there's a tempting array of snowy peaks and wooded valleys. Unfortunately these are in Tibet. Tilman, in the days before the Chinese invasion, was caught in the process of sneaking across north of Rasuwa:
(There was nothing) 'to denote that one had crossed a frontier. And this absence of any hint of might, majesty, dominion or power, is in accord with the Tibetan genius which up to recent years has managed to maintain its privacy behind quite imaginary barriers. Of course, should one happen to intrude, sooner rather than later one is seen off, not by an armed guard but by some stout (affable) official in a Homburg hat and dark spectacles'
The Seven Mountain-Travel Books
(And he was).
It is also possible to see Laurebina; follow the forested saddle to the south-east where the forest runs out. Just above, but difficult to see, are the lodges of Laurebina. Good eyes may pick some of the trail to Gosainkund and the concrete mandir further up.
The trail now crosses to the Ganesh Himal side of the ridge for a pleasant traverse that dances in and out of the forest. Just when you think you should be getting there the trail divides. Either branch will do because they meet again. Around the corner, along a stone wall (there is no need to pass through this to the buildings), is the unusual settlement of Sing Gompa.
Sing Gompa/Chandan Bari 3350m/11,000ft
This is really just a few cheese factory buildings, some lodges and a gompa. Sing is the Tibetan name of the trees around here, most of which burnt in a forest fire about 20 years ago. Chandan is the Nepali name for the same trees and bari is a cropping field. The cheese factory is another of the government's Dairy Development Corporation factories. Cheese is available but the scales are notoriously wrong: 'Beware of the crooked cheese vendor with an attitude' warns Adam Wise. This is one of the few areas where trekkers come into direct contact with corruption. Note that the staff are rotated every few years so this might change. The lodges also sell cheese and often have delicious curd. The local equivalent of muesli and curd is tsampa (light and fluffy roasted barley flour) and curd. A little sugar enlivens it for those with a sweet-tooth.
Lodges During 1996 and 1997 there was a flurry of lodge-building here to cope with increasing trekker traffic. The new Sherpa and Tibet lodges compete with the enduring Red Panda (previously named Evergreen) and the newly rebuilt Greenhill. All have big, well set up cooking stoves in the kitchens and warming potbellies in the dining rooms.
Phulung Gompa This old gompa sits on the ridge well above Sing Gompa. Although rundown, it is still used for special ceremonies. Being atop a hill, there are stunning views including Langtang Lirung.
To Dhunche or Bharkhu The Dhunche trail is steep! The average gradient for the second half of the 1500m/5000ft descent is around 45¡, and feels like much more.
Just below the army base, perhaps 1/4 hour down, the trail divides - take the left fork for Dhunche and right for Bharkhu. This may be signposted. Dhunche or Bharkhu are anywhere from 2-31/2 hours down, depending on your downhill ability.
To Chalang Pati The trail gently climbs to the ridge where it becomes a pleasant ridge walk. Note the striking differences between the sides of the ridge. The sheltered side holds water better hence the real trees, while on the dry sunny side juniper scrub thrives. The wind sometimes howls through the bend in the trees - you might also experience this at Larebina Yak.
Chalang Pati 3670m/12,040ft The direct trail from (Thulo) Syabru joins the ridge here. To the north and a little below is the newly set up Red Panda Reserve and an army post to guard it. Climbing the small hill nearby gives the most extensive views.
If heading in the opposite direction the Sing Gompa trail is wide and flat.
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