JIRI TO NAMCHE
Introduction
Jiri to Namche takes most people seven to nine pleasant days walking, usually including a rest day at Junbesi and a shorter easy day or two. If you have more time and energy there are plenty of opportunities for side trips exploring little-visited villages and gompas. Several alpine valleys are also worth more thorough exploration by well-equipped parties. For the extremely fit in a hurry, walking from Jiri to Namche in four days is possible – just. There are good lodges along the main route and since these are usually only a few hours apart it’s no longer necessary to plan a detailed itinerary as suggested by some guidebooks. Simply follow your instincts and the advice of other trekkers rather than sticking to a rigid schedule.
The walk is strenuous, following a route that goes against the grain of the land; all the rivers and ridges flow north to south and the trail runs west to east. Following the standard route (not including side trips) by the time you reach Namche you will have climbed up almost exactly the height of Mt Everest, 8848m/29,028ft, and the corresponding descents to Namche total the height of Ama Dablam, 6828m/22,402ft. Since you have trekked the majority of the time between 2000 and 3000m this means you are well acclimatized to around 3000m and unlikely to feel the altitude at Namche. However, higher up you should take it just as cautiously as everyone else.
Leaving Jiri there is an introductory hill, then three higher major ridges: an unnamed 2700m/8858ft pass, the Lamjura Pass 3530m/11,581ft and Trakshindo Pass 3071m/10,075ft. Once across the Dudh Kosi (river), the trail climbs high up the valley sides skirting steep rock faces before descending to recross the river several times before the final hill to Namche.
Jiri has been the end of the road into the hills in this region for more than 15 years. Now, however, the road is being extended again, though it is unlikely to be completed particularly quickly. Currently there are sections being built as far in as Bhandar but it is only sometimes navigable as far as Shivalaya and currently there are no bus services; all buses still finish in Jiri. Doubtless this will change, so ask in Jiri for the latest details.
Services – Jiri to Lukla
There are a surprising number of medical facilities, although Maoist activities have temporarily disrupted services. Phaplu has a bush hospital and there is usually a good Nepali doctor at Kenja and at Kharikhola. Between Jiri and Namche there are no functioning banks. Jiri has an unreliable and busy phone and Phaplu has a telephone system, and beyond that there is Lukla. Installation of new lines has been severely hampered by Maoist activities.
Kathmandu to Jiri
This part of the journey is made by bus (see p108) or taxi. Budget travellers take the public bus while groups usually organize a private bus or take taxis. Hiring a car and driver is the most comfortable alternative but you can go by bus for a fraction of the cost. From the old bus station in the centre of Kathmandu the first departure for Jiri is at around 5.30am. Thieves are now working the bus station and this route intensively so take great care of your luggage. These people are no mere opportunists, they are professionals – many trekkers have lost things from side-pockets, and occasionally even a whole rucksack goes missing. It’s best to try to take your rucksack inside the bus; the ticket office is helpful and will often give you front seats or even a seat for your rucksack (which you pay for) but other passengers may object to this. Most buses have a dusty boot at the back that can be locked. If you’re in a group ensure that all the packs are stowed together on the roof and at the first chance for passengers to ride on the roof, go up and keep a close eye on them. There are also occasional pickpockets at the bus station. Their favourite trick is to watch where you put the change after buying your ticket then hurry you onto the bus while their hand delves into your pocket. The police have been unhelpful in all cases.
The first part of this 10-12 (and occasionally up to 16) hour bus journey is to Lamosangu (78km, 5 hours) along the Chinese-constructed Arniko Rajmarg or Kodari Highway that runs to the Tibetan border and Lhasa. Leaving Kathmandu you pass through the lower part of Bhaktapur where, until the early 1960s, the trek to Everest began.
There is a steep climb out of the Kathmandu Valley and from Dhulikhel, at the crest of the hill, there are views on a clear day of the Himalaya from Manaslu to Everest. The road drops to Dolalghat (ghat means ‘bridge’) and crosses the Indrawati River. The Chinese road had progressed this far by 1967 so the first commercial treks to the Khumbu started from here.
After crossing the Sun Kosi (‘Gold River’) the road follows the river to Lamosangu (‘Long Bridge’), the buses usually stopping by the scruffy stalls by the bridge for dal bhaat. One only needs to have a quick look around and sniff the air to realize that hygiene is not even marginal but there are biscuits, chocolate and soft drinks available.
From the bridge it’s a further 110km to Jiri, marked by kilometre posts that start at 0km from the Lamosangu bridge. This road was part of a Swiss aid programme, constructed as a model to demonstrate building techniques for mountain roads using appropriate technology. Rather than employing expensive machinery it was decided to maximize the use of local labour. Rocks were broken with hammers and a lot of sweat, and all the wire netting was woven by hand, providing a vast amount of work. In addition to wages, food was sold in set quantities at subsidized prices to reduce the local impact of the hungry workforce. The only heavy machinery used was a road roller. The result is a Swiss-quality road that will probably last longer with less maintenance than any other road in Nepal. Unfortunately the technique and attention to detail hasn’t been duplicated for the rest of Nepal’s rural hill roads.
From Lamosangu it can be pleasant to ride on the roof of the bus (theoretically illegal) but take a jacket or wind-cheater. At the top of the first major ridge is Muldi where there may be another stop before continuing to Charikot (km54) where trekkers are sometimes requested to register. The turn-off to the left here leads to Dolakha, a few kilometres away (see p257). On a cloudless day the monumental twin-headed Gauri Sankar stands out for the next half hour. The high peak slightly right is Menglutse in Tibet.
The descent to the Tamba Kosi (‘Copper River’) is steep. At the bridge the driver takes a break for a cup of tea or two. If you are on the roof it’s a good idea to start putting on warm clothes because it is still several hours and 38km to Jiri. The plantations you pass are a Swiss reforestation programme. After another pass the gradual descent to Jiri begins and at a stop at Kot you might have to register at the police checkpost. Jiri is ten minutes further on.
Note that in winter it’s not unknown for a snowfall or sheet ice to block a high section of the road, which means a couple of extra days’ walking.
JIRI (1935m/6348ft)
Nestling in a fertile valley beyond the ugly materialism of the road, Jiri is a prosperous and tidy village. The people are mainly of the Jirel caste who originate, so the legend goes, from a Sherpa mother and a Sunuwar father. There are also some Sherpas and with the road (which linked Jiri in 1984) came the merchant castes, mainly Newars.
There are many lodges but only a few that trekkers frequent. Most are four storeys high but look the same height as the three-storied buildings; inside, the low doorways are headbangingly obvious.
Electricity comes from Lamosangu, from the Chinese hydro-project there. The fact that it costs something means that the farmers cannot afford it so it’s used mainly by the local businesses and lodges. Since firewood (for cooking) is still cheap, apart from a couple of refrigerators and a hot water cylinder electricity is only used for lighting.
With Jiri being the beginning or the end of a trek most people are anxious to be on their way and there is little to hold you here other than to inspect the various Swiss projects. Don’t expect peaceful lie-ins in the morning: you’ll be woken at the crack of dawn by a cacophony of bus horns announcing the departures to Kathmandu. If you do have more time the hill above Jiri (at least a day’s walk up) affords outrageous Himalayan views.
Planning the first day’s trek
Walking from Jiri, groups generally stay at Shivalaya for the first night. This is only half a day’s walk from Jiri but the first morning is busy with the porters and their loads being sorted out. This short, easy day is also ideal for gently accustoming the legs to the rigours of trekking. The facilities at Shivalaya are quite good so less fit independent trekkers may also consider spending the night here.
The next accommodation is in two simple lodges up the hill at Sangbadanda. Fit walkers can comfortably make the numerous lodges at Deorali although it is a long day. Reaching Bhandar is possible but your legs will suffer the following day.
Driving to Shivalaya is marginally quicker than walking, but probably less comfortable. You should be able to make Bhandar that day, and Sete the following day.
JIRI TO SHIVALAYA – STANDARD ROUTE [MAP 1, above]
Each time this guide has been brought out the trail leaving Jiri has changed about a month later. Since there is now a jeep road on the point of opening no doubt this will happen again! Apologies to everyone. Currently, if trekking out of Jiri simply follow the porters, head along the jeep road before leaving it at an unmarked junction – though you’d be wise to ask your lodge owner for the latest.
The following assumes you are taking the standard route via Chitre:
Chitre An hour out of Jiri is Chitre, a shanty of primitive teashacks. The surrounding area looks horribly bare with goats having eaten all the vegetation and the people look decidedly poor. This is probably one of the most impoverished-looking areas on the whole route, although throughout Nepal there are many places similar to it. Around a bend lurks an unwelcome surprise: it’s still a little way to the top of the small pass.
Small pass (2400m/7874ft) At the crest are a couple more teashacks and some new vistas. The path heads down; it’s easy to follow and in about ten minutes you pass a primary school. Around here is the usual spot for groups to have lunch. Another five minutes along the trail brings you to Mali.
Mali First there’s a simple teahouse, then three lodges that look reasonable, one with a small shop in it. The facilities are basic and with it being so close to Jiri few trekkers ever stay here.
Leaving Mali the trail leads down, and down is the word. About one hour later cross a small stream; further on past a couple of buildings is the long suspension bridge over the Khimti Khola to Shivalaya.
Shivalaya (1800m/5905ft)
Resting on the east bank of the khola, Shivalaya (‘Shiva’s home’ or ‘Shiva’s temple’) was not much more than a sleepy hamlet of eight or nine lodges. Now that the road has arrived, however, the pace of building is frantic, change is rapid, and lodges are far too numerous to list.
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