WITH A GROUP OR ON YOUR OWN?
Nepal, long suspicious of foreign influence and colonial powers, began opening its borders only in 1948. The first tourists (as opposed to mountaineers and researchers) arrived in 1955 but it was not until 1965, when Colonel Jimmy Roberts set up Mountain Travel, that the first commercial treks began. The concept was similar to the expedition approach used by mountaineers, with guides, porters and tents. These holidays proved to be a great success and essentially the same expedition-style format is still used today by many trekking companies.
Alongside this self-sufficient approach to trekking is a second locally-based tourism industry catering to the needs of a different type of visitor. Along the main trade routes the hill peoples of Nepal traditionally had a code of hospitality towards travellers. It was only a matter of time before small groups of adventurers started taking advantage of this, staying in basic teahouses and lodges. In 1964 just 14 foreigners visited the Khumbu but by the 1970s the numbers were rapidly increasing. Now more than 15,000 people trek this way each year, staying in the much improved lodges and teahouses along the routes.
It used to be that most people knew instinctively whether they were an independent or a group trekker. A middle way has now developed, however, with trekking groups also using local teahouses; recently trekking companies have even started building chains of their own lodges. So now the trekking infrastructure in the Solu-Khumbu has developed to a stage where many options are possible, from a full-scale expedition with tents and porters through guided teahouse treks to an independent trek using the local lodges and carrying only a sleeping bag and jacket. It is simply a case of choosing the option most appropriate for you.
The convenience that each option offers will probably be the deciding factor. For a time-limited holiday it is nice to have everything pre-arranged, whereas on a budget part of the fun is organizing things yourself. Certainly with a company you have more back-up in case something goes wrong, but since it is often the rigidity of the planned itinerary that causes a problem, this is a dubious advantage. If the standard of guiding in Nepal were higher then there would be definite advantages to signing up with a guided trek. But most ‘guides’ are really just sirdars, competent organizers rather than knowledgeable wildlife and cultural interpreters; the guiding concept as we understand it in the West is little understood here. The majority of ‘guides’ have little or no training and are rarely fluent in English.
On an expedition-style trek and a teahouse trek, although the styles of interaction with locals are different they are equivalent. Staying in a lodge provides the rewarding opportunity to mix with your Nepali hosts, many of whom speak reasonable English. How much you interact depends on you; some trekkers seem happy to spend all their time just in the company of other trekkers. On an expedition-style trek or teahouse trek, although being self-sufficient removes the enjoyable need to interact with the villagers, this is redeemed by the crew who look after, entertain and add local colour to the trek. So making a choice probably comes down to your aspirations and the convenience factor.
INDEPENDENT TEAHOUSE TREKKING
Dotted along the main trails are privately owned teahouses and lodges. They can provide anything from a cup of tea to a full meal and a bed so, for the entire trek, there’s no need to carry food or shelter. Teahouse trekking, as it’s usually called, is easy to organize: just pack and go. It’s also cheap: luxuries aside, US$20/£13 a day easily covers food and accommodation.
The level of comfort and facilities in the lodges has improved greatly. Once infamously smoky and rather too authentically mediaeval, many are now modest hotels which generally offer better facilities than the expedition approach. Because of the way that the lodges are managed in the Khumbu, they are universally regarded as the best in the country, on average significantly better than the lodges in Langtang and better than most lodges in the Annapurna region.
As well as being economical, teahouse trekking gives you the freedom to alter your schedule and stop where you wish. This is particularly handy if you are sick for a day or two or you feel like a rest; commercial group treks have to push on. The freedom to explore is slightly limited by the location of lodges and the restricting geography of the region, though in practice most trekkers follow a few standard routes and similar itineraries anyway, as do the trekking companies. This means that during the peak season the lodges in popular stopping places are crowded, although a meal and bed can always be found.
Trekking alone
Many people trek by themselves. Unless trekking during the monsoon or off the standard routes you constantly meet other trekkers in the lodges or on the trail so while you can remain by yourself if you wish, most people end up walking in small groups and staying at the same lodges. This process often begins on the bus out to Jiri or on the flight to Lukla, and more friendships evolve during the rest of the walk, one of the special joys of Nepal trekking.
Standard wilderness recommendations are to hike in a group of three or more, in case of accidents. However, there is less need to apply this reasoning in the Khumbu because there are several medical posts along the way, and lodge owners and other trekkers can render assistance. While many people would consider it foolish to rely on strangers, in fact very few trekkers have accidents or ever end up relying on – and inconveniencing – other trekkers so I feel there are few risks in hiking alone in the Khumbu (ie above Lukla). As a woman the risks of physical sexual harassment are also negligible above Lukla, for which you can thank the broad sexual equality accorded by the Sherpa culture. That said, dressing conservatively and behaving modestly is sensible, and when stopping for the night it’s a good idea to check that there is another woman staying in the same lodge, or head for one of the busier lodges; if heading off the main routes you should team up with someone else, as much for general safety as anything else.
Trekking below Lukla alone (as a male or female) used to be safe but more caution is required now. Villagers often ask how many people you are trekking with and the best reply is always to say that your friend is just behind. Violent crimes against foreigners are still virtually unknown but the law and order situation in the country has deteriorated significantly.
If you would prefer to begin your trek with a partner, advertise on, or scan, the noticeboards around Thamel, especially at the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA), Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP) office, Pumpernickel Bakery and the Kathmandu Guest House boards. There are many internet message boards, and there’s a short list on website www.trailblaz er-guides.com (Trekking in the Everest Region, update pages).
Other options are to hire a porter-guide through a trekking company or in Lukla, or try to join an existing group.
Trekking the wild way
For climbers and experienced trekkers the region has an incredible amount to offer. At any major village on the main trekking routes you can pick up enough food (provided you’re not a fussy eater) to disappear into the wilderness for a week or more, so the scope for exploring off the beaten track is immense. The main decisions boil down to selecting exactly what gear to take and deciding if you have enough experience for some of the wilder route options.
COMMERCIAL GUIDED TREKS
The decisions facing today’s trekker are manifold. Even if you decide, for example, that you’d prefer to trek independently, you still have to decide whether you need a porter/guide, and if so, whether to hire him through a Nepali trekking company via the internet before you leave home, once you arrive in Kathmandu, or even at the trailhead. Alternatively, if you’d rather join a group, would you rather book through an unknown Nepali trekking company, which will be cheaper, or through a more expensive but usually more reliable foreign operator, who at least will take your complaints – should you have any – seriously? The internet has served only to increase the possibilities and options available – but the potential for pitfalls has also risen.
Is a guide or porter necessary?
Assuming you will be taking this book with you, there’s no need for a guide of the human kind on the established trekking routes. The lodges are impossible to miss, route finding presents few problems and basic English is widely understood. However, trekking with some local people can be an enlightening, entertaining and a rewarding cultural exchange.
Hiring a porter-guide is an option that gives you the advantages of both the independent approach and the group trek. You retain control, but with the opportunity for the greater insight and interaction that a guide can provide, and you have your load pleasantly lightened. A porter-guide should speak reasonable English, know the region and carry 10-15kg plus their equipment. They are happy to work for one person or a small group, or if you have several loads to carry you could hire an additional porter to accompany the group. See p104.
A cheaper option is to hire a normal porter, who will probably speak little English but know the trail route well. You shouldn’t feel the least bit guilty if you do hire a porter-guide or a porter. The money you give them directly benefits the local economy and the walk itself can be an enjoyable cultural exchange. See p105.
What you’re paying for
A commercial trek, whether teahouse-style or expedition-style, is a pleasant routine suited to those who enjoy being looked after and, with everything planned in advance, is perfect for people with limited time. Pre-trek preparation should be easier and can all be arranged by telephone or email. Normally the package includes airport pick-up, a guided tour plus a day or two in Kathmandu, hotel accommodation, and everything while trekking. Advice is just a question away and there is security in knowing that back-up is readily available in case of real trouble.
Many trekking companies, however, still have significant flaws. A few fail to plan itineraries that allow for sensible acclimatization and many, if you do struggle, simply turn you back without the possibility of a slower ascent or an alternative lower altitude trek. Foreign trekking companies have comprehensive packing lists, jabs lists and offer tailored insurance yet the majority of Nepali companies don’t. The local guides, or sirdars, leave a lot to be desired too: one would expect them to be trained in history and culture, first aid and group management, yet the majority are not. Even if they are adequately trained, many still struggle to act as a cultural interface between trekkers and Nepalis. Even among the professional agencies, while the leaders are usually good they are not always so, and many have surprisingly little real understanding of altitude sickness and other common medical complaints. To be fair though, this is more of a failing of Nepal’s education and belief system because most good companies have training programmes. As a result, Western-led trips are generally more reliable, although usually pricier too. While the standards of a Nepali trekking company may not always be particularly high, one definite advantage is they will run a trek for just a couple of people.
Commercial teahouse trekking
Recognizing the improvements in lodges, many foreign and local trekking companies now also offer teahouse-style trek packages. The usually warm dining-room is much better than an often frigid dining tent, the lodge food is certainly equal to the average group cook’s offerings and the bedrooms are more spacious than a tent. It is also much more convenient to be met at the airport with your hotel already arranged.
However, you pay well for the privilege of going on a tour compared to doing the same thing independently and there are some specific limitations that you should be aware of. Normally it is the trekking company or guide that chooses the lodges and unless you’re willing to pay an additional sum the very best lodges and restaurants (eg pizza at the Namche bakery) will be off-limits. Some companies use a restrictive ‘set meal’ arrangement while others allow you to choose from the menu. In many cases you will be sharing a lodge with other trekkers and a late night party might keep you (or them) awake: most lodges are not particularly soundproof. On balance, however, teahouse trekking is more comfortable than camping.
Expedition-style trekking
The traditional idea of trekking evokes images of armies of heavily-laden porters catering to the every needs of a few pampered sahibs and memsahibs, while sherpas pitch the tents and kitchen staff serve magnificent dinners on tables complete with table linen. In fact this is still essentially the standard format today, and it’s a glorious way to trek, especially off the beaten track where teahouses are rare, or during peak season when the lodges are overflowing.
The main advantage of this style of trekking is that you are independent of teahouses, though the porters are still reliant on finding food in villages. Some companies run expedition-style treks simply because they have large groups – for example KE Adventures’ maximum group size is 16 clients – and lodges in a few places would struggle to cope with a party this big.
Adventure treks and recreational mountaineering
If you are considering a true wilderness trek across some of the wilder passes or fancy climbing a 6000m peak, you are probably better organizing such an expedition through a professional company unless you are supremely confident in your abilities and experience. However, even if you do arrange things through a company, caution is still required. Nepali companies, despite their claims, are notorious for getting out of their depth. Indeed, few local climbing guides can even belay – a standard climbing technique. This is a major failing of the whole trekking industry in Nepal and you should choose which company you sign up with carefully.
That said, the majority of Nepali-guided expeditions, such as those across the Tashi Labtsa or up to the summits of Island Peak and Mera Peak, do run successfully. With these treks, Western guides generally have higher success rates and if there is a problem, a much better understanding of what the safest course of action would be. Foreign trekking companies using Western guides are much more professional and have a lot more at stake too. You definitely pay for what you get.
NEPALI TREKKING AGENCIES
The internet has radically changed how many people book a trek in advance. A quick search throws up hundreds of Nepali trek operators and choosing between them can be difficult. Most compete on price and little else and will pull every trick in the book, fair or otherwise, to get you to sign up. One would assume that you could sort the good companies from the bad by the quality of the answers they give to your questions, but even this is not an entirely reliable method as it is rarely the trekking staff who answer the emails, but rather a computer-literate Nepali with relatively little trekking experience.
While it is pleasant to arrive in Kathmandu with everything already arranged, it is sometimes possible to wait until you meet the company face to face in Kathmandu before agreeing to sign up and finalizing your arrangements. If doing this, allow a day or two in Kathmandu to compare companies; then, having found a suitable trekking company, a couple more to allow them to get a crew and supplies together. One trick is to go rafting or on a jungle safari prior to the trek, which gives the trekking company time to prepare properly.
Either way, this approach is cheaper than a package tour booked in your own country. You are not paying for office services and pre-trek preparation, which may amount to more than the actual trek. You also have greater flexibility on the choice of itinerary and changes you may wish to make to the route. Try to talk with other trekkers who have used a company’s services too – they will know better than anybody what the company is like.
Another possibility is to join a group trek after you have arrived in Nepal, though for this option you must be prepared to wait, and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The majority of pre-arranged treks are organized by foreign tour operators and are considered exclusive, with bookings via the overseas agent only. There are a few companies that advertise set trekking dates but these usually depart even if only two people book. Sometimes, although not always, this is just a different way of advertising trek-organizing expertise.
TREKKING AGENCIES OUTSIDE NEPAL
Some companies offer a general range of treks while others specialize in climbing and adventure treks. Brochures and websites usually stress the level of experience required for treks and climbs advertised. Don’t, however, lose sight of the fact that although trekking is made easier by the need to carry only a daypack, it is still your legs that do all the walking. Don’t be afraid to quiz the company on who is leading the trek, their group numbers policy, and on the detailed itinerary. All profess to following comfortable acclimatization rates but the hard reality is that many don’t. They may have a good safety record of saving people before it’s too late, but many itineraries cause undue and unnecessary discomfort. While the majority of operators have a slick website, curiously very few feature detailed itineraries or advertise the price of their trips.
Compared to Nepali companies the prices quoted by foreign agencies are higher, often much higher, but you’ll also get a much higher standard of trek too. Furthermore, you have the consumer rights of your country on your side, so you should be well protected. In contrast, if booking through a Nepali company you’ll have to deal with the slow-moving Ministry of Tourism should anything go wrong.
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