Trailblazer Guide Books

Worth watching out for.
 - John Cleare

NEWQUAY TO CRANTOCK [MAPS 30-31 & 31a]

This simple 2-mile (3km, 35-45 mins if using ferry, longer for other options) stretch leaves Newquay by way of the headland, crosses inland of Fistral Beach through the dunes and becomes involved with suburban streets, most of them with Pentire in the name; choose your route. The only obstacle of the route is the crossing of the tidal Gannel River and how easy this is will depend on the state of the tide. It helps to have picked up a copy of the Tide Tables which are available at the tourist information centre and at many other places such as hotels and some shops.

You can cross by ferry at high tide, by the Penpol footbridge or by walking the long way round by the Trevemper footbridge (see options in detail below).

Once across the Gannel, you may decide to walk the short distance inland to Crantock (see pp132-4) for what limited services it has to offer or carry on on the official route, or if it is low tide walk along the beach through the dunes.

Crossing the Gannel River [MAPS 31 & 31a]
If you haven't already bought a tide table (see box below) you are probably going to need one now. There are four ways to cross the Gannel; which one you take depends on the time of year and the state of the tide. On the Pentire side light refreshments, including sandwiches, cakes and hot drinks, are available at the Fern Pit café (end May-mid Sep, daily 10am-6pm), open whether the ferry is running or not. There is also a seasonal café on the opposite side near the car park. Note: all distances are Newquay-Crantock.

The official crossing (2 miles/3km) is via the Fern Pit Ferry (A) (Tel 01637-873181, www.fernpit.co.uk). This is the quickest and easiest option but the ferry (£1 each way) only operates from late May to mid-September, daily 10am-6pm. If the tide is out you can walk across their footbridge (note this is also closed during the winter) for free;

The second option (3 miles/5km) is to cross the Penpol Footbridge (B). This footbridge is tidal but you should be able to cross two to four hours either side of low tide. If you are in any doubt whatsoever it is very easy to continue walking from here to the next bridge further up the Gannel;

The third option (5 miles/8km) is the Laurie Bridge (C; Map 31a), which is also a bridleway. The only time it's not possible to cross this bridge is one hour either side of a high spring tide;

The final option (6 miles/10km) is to follow the main road (A392) right around the Gannel. However, this is a long and boring walk with the constant smell of exhaust fumes. You really would do much better to wait for the tides, plan ahead or catch a bus (see public transport map and table, pp46-50).

CRANTOCK [MAP 31]
Crantock is a traditional Cornish village with thatched cottages clustered round a village green. it's a ten-minute walk uphill from Crantock Beach where there is a barely adequate seasonal café so if you need refreshments I would advise going into the village.

There is a curious enclosure known as Crantock Round Garden to look at and perhaps sit inside to eat your sandwiches bought at the village shop. It used to be a pound (a place to keep stray cattle in until they could be claimed). You can even check out the stocks, last used in the 19th century, round the back of the church.

Londis Store and post office (Mon-Sat 7.30am-8pm, closed Wed pm, Sun 8am-6pm) has a good range of essentials including sandwiches and fruit.

The two pubs stand opposite each other so take your choice. The Old Albion (Tel 01637-830243; Easter-Oct bar meals daily noon-2pm & 6.30-9pm; rest of year Sun lunch noon-2pm only) is 400 years old and a traditional village pub. The Cornishman (Tel 01637-830869; food served Easter-Oct daily noon-9pm) has bar meals with mains from £6.95, or sandwiches from £2.50 and soup of the day from £3.50.

If pub food doesn't attract you, Cosynook Tea Gardens (Tel 01637-830324; Easter-Oct daily 10.30am-5pm & July & Aug Wed-Fri 6.30-8.30pm) besides doing morning coffee, lunches and cream teas opens for evening meals in summer. Booking is essential. The mussels in garlic butter at £7.95 sound enticing.

For campers, Quarryfield Caravan and Camping Park (Tel 01637-872792, : www.quarryfield.co.uk) charges £6-9 per person depending on the season and is open from Easter to the end of October.

There are a few B&Bs including the recommended Carden Cottage (Tel 01637-830806, email: cardencottage@btinternet.com; 2D/1T, all en suite), a charming cottage in a quiet location. The rooms have king-size beds and they charge from £34 per person. Walkers are frequent guests here and are made welcome; they also offer baggage transfer. Tregenna House (Tel 01637-830222, web www.tregennahouse.co.uk; 1S/ 3D/1F) charges £65-70 per room (£38.50 for single occupancy), or £75 for the family room including use of the pool in the season; it's great for a dip after a sweaty day on the trail. Sandbanks (Tel 01637-830130, : alisonsmithurst@hotmail.com; 2D/1T), Beach Rd, is open March to October and charges from £25 per person. One of the doubles is en suite but the other rooms share facilities.

To the west of the village is a larger establishment, Fairbank Hotel (Tel 01637-830424, web www.fairbankhotel.co.uk, West Pentire Rd; 2S/10D/2T, all en suite) where you'll pay £85-95 per room (£40 for a single) for B&B but they are licensed and have a restaurant (open from 7pm).