Trailblazer Guide Books

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 - Adventure Travel

Cairo to Cape Town

Amaya Williams

Taking on Africa by bicycle may sound daunting to many. But for those who dare to take the plunge, Africa offers an unforgettable adventure that will be physically demanding, mentally challenging and immensely rewarding.  Once you get beyond the clichés of a continent embroiled in ethnic conflicts and mired in poverty, you’ll have the privilege of meeting some of the warmest people on earth and cycling through landscapes that range from dense tropical rainforest, to wide-open savannah, from windswept deserts to rolling hills covered in forests of eucalyptus. In Africa you can ride through great empty spaces and experience solitude and silence like nowhere else on the planet.  You can pedal past herds of thundering elephants, loping giraffes and zebras and listen to hippos grazing outside your tent at night.  You can experience a simpler way of life where smiles radiate, handshakes are warm and sincere and life is lived with a zest not often found in the West.
     Africa is a vast continent, larger than the combined areas of China, the USA, Western Europe, Argentina and India. But rather than trying to take on the entire continent and its 53 countries in one go, most touring cyclists choose to focus on a particular region or route. By far the most popular Africa route is Cairo to Cape Town, taking in the diverse landscapes and cultures of East Africa and Southern Africa. West Africa and in particular Central Africa see far fewer cyclists and are good options for those seeking a bit more adventure and who are willing to deal with the vagaries of cowboy officials and changing regimes.
The ride
One of the main advantages of this classic route is that, apart from a long stretch of rough road in Northern Kenya and a few hundred kilometres of unpaved highway in Sudan’s Nubian Desert, it can all be done on tarmac.  This route will be easier if done north to south due to strong prevailing northerly headwinds that blow down through the deserts in Egypt and Sudan. Set aside at least six months for the 12,000-km expedition.

Egypt
For many cyclists, Egypt’s Western Desert is their first encounter with the beauty, silence and solitude of desert riding. Camping amongst the eerie wind-sculpted rock formations under an ocean of stars and watching the dramatic colour changes at sunrise and sunset is an amazing visual experience that will make you forget all those kilometres you’ve cycled with the wind whistling in your ear. The lush oases that punctuate this extension of the Sahara break up the monotony of the vast sandy expanses.
    On the downside, Egyptians are slightly obsessed with internal security, especially along the Nile River. In the past, cyclists were regularly forced to take a ride in a convoy and were not allowed to cycle this route. Thankfully, the government has lightened up and cyclists are now being allowed to ride most of the way, albeit often with an annoying police escort trailing them at a short distance. If you don’t enjoy uninvited company, and are keen to explore more of the desert, consider following the longer, but often spectacular Western Desert route where you will be allowed to cycle freely without escort or convoy.

Sudan
If you’ve travelled much, you’ve probably discovered that the destinations the US State Department warns against most strongly are the same countries whose citizens are the most hospitable. It’s certainly the case in Sudan, where you’ll be showered with kindness. Everyone will want you to join them for tea; if you mention you’re looking for a restaurant you’ll be invited home for a meal; shopkeepers will refuse payment and strangers will offer you gifts of food and cold drinks. Encounters with these amazing people will lift your spirits after a tough day’s ride through the Nubian Desert. Not long ago, when cyclists spoke of traversing the Nubian Desert in Northern Sudan they would invariably mention seas of sand, days without passing a single village and tell tales of heaving their bikes over steep, rocky and rutted tracks. Now that the Sudanese government has gone on a paving spree, with only a couple of hundred kilometres of rough road remaining between Dongola and Wadi Halfa, these experiences will be relegated to cycling lore.

Ethiopia
Ethiopia’s highlands are the place to go if you like mountains. The climate is comfortably cool, the views are stunning and the 23-km climb out of the spectacular Blue Nile Gorge is unforgettable. Ethiopian kids, however, are infamous among cyclists. They’re prone to pestering bikers for money and are easily worked up into a frenzy just at the sight of foreign tourists. You’ll most likely have to dodge a few low flying stones, so this will be a good time to get some use out of the helmet you’ve got strapped to your back rack.

Kenya
If you’re up for some real adventure that’s truly off the beaten track, then a trip around Lake Turkana is perfect for you. The ‘road’ is just a sandy track and you won’t encounter any package-tourists whizzing by in 4WDs. This area is in the heartland of tribal Africa and the colourful Turkana people still live much as they did centuries ago. It’s a challenge to find water and you may end up digging in a dry river-bed (see box p227) just as we did. If you want to chalk up some tales that are worth telling, this is the place for you.
    The Isiolo-Moyale road in Northern Kenya remains problematic owing to shiftas (as the local bandits are known) and rough road conditions. Many cyclists choose to hop on a bus for this stretch. We chose the alternative Lake Turkana route and were rewarded with some of the most memorable and challenging cycling of the entire expedition.
 
Tanzania
Cycling through national parks is off-limits in many parts of the world owing to the perceived danger of encounters with wild animals. Mikumi National Park, not far from Dar es Salaam, has no such restrictions and you’re free to come face to face with wild game including elephants, zebras, antelope, warthogs and lions. It’s an exhilarating experience, but plan the 50-km ride for midday when you’re less likely to run into a pride of lions lazing in the shade of an acacia.

Malawi
This tiny country shouldn’t be overlooked. If you like your cycling a little more relaxed, a ride around scenic Lake Malawi is ideal. Catch the sunset on the terrace of one of the numerous lodges lining the lake and put aside your fears of bilharzia (a parasitic infection caused by a worm sometimes present in tropical waters) and cool down with a quick dip in the lake whenever the pedalling gets too tiring.

Zambia
Zambia bills itself as ‘the real Africa’. Here’s where you’ll find yourself surrounded by the wild, untamed bush synonymous with Southern African scenery. South Luangwa National Park makes a great side trip, but be prepared. Riaan Manser, author of Around Africa on my Bicycle, says: ‘A park ranger told me to mark my territory around the tent the way a cat would – to keep lions away.’ Once you turn off from Chipata, the road goes from being perfectly paved to perfectly awful. Locals will warn you not to be on the road near sunset because that’s when the elephants are out and they’re a surly bunch in Zambia known to trample crops and invade unsuspecting villages.

Namibia  
While one best-selling guidebook claims that ‘Namibia is desert country totally unsuitable for cycling’, it stands out as one of my personal favourites. The harsh and unforgiving environment will test your resolve, but your efforts will be more than rewarded with a night camping in the desert under a canopy of stars and waking to a spectacular sunrise. The dunes at Sossusvlei are said to be the highest in the world and are surely one of the most awe-inspiring sights in Southern Africa.
    If you decide to follow the main B1 highway heading south from Windhoek you shouldn’t have any problems finding food or water, but you’ll miss out on the real beauty of the Namib Desert. If you set off towards the desert and the dramatic dunes at Sossusvlei, as we did, your main concern will be finding water, although heat, high winds and sandy roads are other fun elements to deal with. Not far outside of Windhoek, the road turns to gravel. Conditions vary widely. If the grader has been through recently you’re in luck, if not you may have to push at some points, as we did. Be sure to carry lots of water. At least six litres per rider for drinking, just to be on the safe side. We were there in October and it was over 40ºC! When the real heat sets in around December you might want to think twice about tackling this route.
South Africa
The coastal Garden Route seems to be a favourite with cyclists, but I prefer the solitude of the semi-arid Karoo region. The sky goes on forever, locals are surprised and happy to see a foreign cyclist and hospitality is just a door knock away. You’ll have to be as hardy as the Merino sheep that populate the area, because the distances between services are long and the heat can be oppressive in the summer months.
    The Rainbow Nation suffers from a high rate of crime, but most of this is confined to large urban areas and targeted farm violence. Cyclists who keep their wits about them and take a few extra precautions, like finding a safe place to camp well before sunset and avoiding township areas, are unlikely to encounter any trouble.

Botswana
The chief challenges in Botswana are steering clear of the abundant wild animals and obtaining water. You’ll have your own mini-safari right from the saddle and will be sure to spot plenty of elephants, giraffes and zebras. Distances between settlements are long on the Kasane, Nata, Maun route and expect to put in 150km or more per day. Sleeping rough is probably unwise as lion sightings are not unknown.